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Honda Civic Type R Ep3 Milano red


si cred ca asta e culoare ce va aparea pe rote in curand Icon_biggrin

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dada, sa-mi zici si mie cum. de mult imi tot storc creierii cum e culoarea aia... m-am gandit la un fond gri iar lac cu perla, numai nu stiu de unde perla aia cu tenta aramie.
Invidia Injen Weapon-R Eibach Drag Wheels Skunk2 Magnat

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ia da-ti si voi o parere de setup geometrie. Din ce am vorbit sfaturile sunt urmatoarele:

Fata: Camber -1.2 grade, toe 0,02 mm sau 0,2 (n-am inteles bine la tel)
Spate: camber -1 grade toe 0 mm

Fata: camber -1.3 grade, toe 0
Spate: camber -1.3 grade, toe -1,5mm

Forum uk (baza FRSU)
Fata: Camber -1, toe 1mm
Spate: camber -1, toe -1mm

Acum pe mine ma inteseaza ceva mai defensiv in primul rand spatele sa nu fuga ca e boala ei. Pt asta am vazut ca toe pe spate tre sa fie negativ si reduce supravirarea, insa asta duce la subvirare.

Ca sa fac o combinatie eu ma gandeam la setup-ul urmator:

Fata: camber -1.2, toe 0.2 mm
Spate: camber -1, toe -1 mm
casterul nu stiu, din ce am vazut ar trebui sa fie maxim.

Deci ce ziceti? propuneri corectii etc.

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fata -1.2 toe 0
spate -1 toe -1

parerea mea.

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cum influenteaza setupul asta uzura, mai bine zis cat de mult o amplifica?

Invidia Injen Weapon-R Eibach Drag Wheels Skunk2 Magnat

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Uzura la ce?

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La cauciucuri.

Sincer -1 camber negativ nu e asa mare o problema, se vor uza pe interior un pic mai mult fata de exterior.
Honda nu arde uleiul, il foloseste.

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depinde de jante, nu e chiar musai sa se uzeze, si daca o fac e fff putin.

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un camber combinat cu toe amplifica frictiunea. unghiul de descomunere a fortelor e spre exterior fata de sensu de rotatie. clar o sa uzeze mai mult, intrebarea mea e cat de mult.
Invidia Injen Weapon-R Eibach Drag Wheels Skunk2 Magnat

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pai in functie de cum e echilibrata masina, mai mult sau mai putin , eu asa am vazut la a mea....tre sa probezi mai multe setup-uri sa vezi care iti este cel mai la indemana Icon_wink

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mersi de sfaturi
sa vad ce pot face fara camber bolts si camber arms ca n-am de nici unele Icon_razz ieri am vb cu Tom (daca a pus el ceva pe fata si cum si-a facut geometria fara ele) ca eu stiam, cel putin pe spate ca am vazut cu ochii mei ca sunt alea standard si din ce am vazut lumea prin uk zice ca nu permit nici o modificare.

Acus s-ar putea sa fie posibile niste ajustari dar sa vad cat.
Legat de toe pe spate, tom mi-a sugerat sa folosesc reglaju din suspensie, edfc-ul, si sa raman cu toe 0 pe spate dar sa o fac ceva mai moale pe spate sa tina aderenta.

Greu si cu setup-urile astea.
Oricum asa cum zicea si toyboy conteaza si echilibrarea masinii si din ce am vazut cea mai buna setare se face atunci cand faci si corner weigthing-ul. Dar cum la noi nu prea ai la cine sa apelezi sau altfel la cine stie ce costuri.

Chiar sunt curios daca aparatura de la asko stie sa faca si corner weighting, desi nu prea m-as baza ca baietii stiu sa faca un setup de circuit, ci se rezuma mereu la geo standard honda care ii subviratorie tare pt siguranta.

uite si threadu de pe ctro in care iti dai seama care e treaba cu geo si weighting-ul (cititi-l ca e f interesant si are info bune)

Wheel Alignment and Corner Weighting
Wheel alignment and corner weighting services are one of our specialties at our workshop in Kidderminster, Midlands. From our time in BTCC we gained a vast amount of experience and knowledge which now allows us to set up any vehicle from kit cars to saloon and hatchbacks.

Our system is a fantastic solution for those who have had problems aligning lowered cars where the alignment system cant be used due to minimal arch gap.

We use Beissbarth alignment equipment which in the motorsport industry is renound as the best system on the market today, this system is actually currently used by Honda BTCC and RML who run Chevrolet in BTCC and back the WTCC team also. This isn’t just a standard alignment you’re getting, every possible anomalies are catered for. For example, wheel run out and tyre deformation, these are the sort of issues that standard digital and laser alignment systems simply can’t read or compensate for leaving you the consumer with a poorly aligned car.

Beissbarth geometry measurements include camber, caster, KPI or SAI, individual and total toe front and rear, set back and thrust axis, plus other calculated angles which indicate if the chassis is straight and true or not.

Standard Beissbarth Alignment Benefits over other systems
• Calibrated every time alignment is performed. In comparison, other digital rim mounted systems are calibrated every 6 – 12 months. To bring this into context if you ever knock any of the laser units they will lose their calibration giving incorrect readings.

• Our units compensate for wheel run out which cause incorrect readings. If you’ve ever watched an alignment being performed on your car, you’ll remember how small the adjustments are to make huge differences in the readings. Typically turning a toe bolt 1/20th of a turn will be the difference between 0.5mm toe out to 0.5mm toe in.

All alloy wheels even the most expensive are never perfectly round just like brake discs. When you spin your wheel off the floor you’ll hear the brake disc just catch the pads each turn on 1 -2 separate occasions, this is due to run out. If the alignment system is mounted on a rim and run out of the wheel isn’t compensated for by the system this will again give incorrect readings.

• Full printout’s and on screen displays. We allow all our customers to watch their alignment being performed, this means you have peace of mind seeing everything we’re doing and seeing for yourself the accuracy to which the alignment is performed.
Once the alignment is completed the whole process is repeated by the Beissbarth system to ensure all readings measured are correct.

After the re-check is performed a full print out is given to the customer displaying all results from the alignment that’s been performed.

Prices at the bottom of the page.

Corner Weighting and alignment
Corner weighting is vastly important if you want your car to feel balanced when driving on track or in a spirited manor.

Corner weighting basically balances your car making sure the static weight and cross weight is evenly distributed. When corner weighting is performed it’s important to have half a tank of fuel or a middle range of fuel you will run if racing. We will then use weights in the driver seat to compensate for the weight of the driver.

If a car is heavier one side to the other then not only will that heavier side have more grip when turning but also under braking, in light of this the car will feel very nervous if weight isn’t distributed evenly.

If you’ve drove on track before you’ll most likely be fully aware of these characteristics especially when braking. If you brake even when slightly turning the car will start to drift causing the car to feel very unsettled, this is all due to the fact there is more weight on the corner opposite the direction you’re turning. If the weight in a straight line isn’t distributed evenly then these characteristics will be present even when braking in a perfectly straight direction.

How our system works
We use intercomp equipment to corner weight vehicles with custom CNC plates bolted to the hub to remove any runout anomalies and to allow for easy adjustment. Your no doubt thinking easy adjustment for us is great but how does it benefit you as the consumer?

To explain this we’ll firstly highlight the usual corner weight adjustment process. When adjusting a car firstly it would be placed onto the scales and the scales then checked. Adjustment if large will usually be performed by adjusting ride height to transfer weight, preload can also be adjusted to do this depending on the strut design and chassis layout. Once the initial readings are gained the car is then raised, wheels removed and rough estimate adjustment is made, wheels are then replaced and the process is repeated until the corner weighting is close to being correct.

How our system benefits you is down to the fact these CNC’d plates make all adjustments accessible to us whilst the car is on the scales meaning labour costs are far cheaper. On Average over our old system we can perform corner weighting over twice as fast as previously.

Here is an image of our custom CNC plates, as you can see height and preload adjustments are easily accessible. You can also see the corner weight scales.

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mid adjustment for an Ep3 CTR
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Corner weighting summarised benefits
• Tables always leveled to ensure accuarte readings for both alignment and corner weighting.
• Weight distributed from left to right as accurately as physically possible.
• Equal cross weight distribution
• Half the time due to custom CNC plates reducing labour costs
• Balanced handling characteristics under turning, braking and accelerating
• Increased driver confidence
• Alignment and corner weighting can be performed at the same time again to reduce labour costs over other systems.

Here is a review from one of our recent customers: - viewtopic.php?f=155&t=243302

The best part of this is we're currently NO more expensive than companies with far less accurate equipment!

Standard Alignment using Beissbarth system– Prices start from £95 inc all Charges

Corner weighting and Alignment – Prices start from £165 inc all Charges

Corner weighting – Prices start from £85 inc all charges

Mda, as da si eu banii astia sa stiu ca mi-o face ceas Icon_smile

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Pai ti-a face ceas dar nu tine o viata apoi trebuie sa o faci iarasi. cel mai simplu sistem folosit si de o gramada de piloti este cel facut cu ata si cu ruleta Icon_wink

Titlu: DIY alignment

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Ok here it comes.

Red:are the strings attached to 2 blocks or any thing that will hold them solid

Green distances are important, 100mm is what i used, can be any thing you choose once they are all the same.

To align:
All on the same Wheel (e.g Front left)
@ 0.00 toe
pink and blue lines ( distance from line to rim) will be the same as each other (e.g. for me dist from center = 100mm, dist to front of rim " blue" = 80mm, dist to rear of rim "pink" = 80mm ). after adjusting.

Rear Left:
@ toe in 2mm:
Pink line is shorter than blue line by a set distance.

1.Have car on level ground.
2.Lock Steering wheel straight! i used vice grips in foot well where steering rod enters car.
3. Set up as in diagram.
4.Adjust track rods to get front toe to 0.00, roll car back froward after adjustment and before measuring , to allow wheel settle.

Lengthen track rod to - toe (in), or shorten to + toe (out)

TO TRACK CORRECTLY CAR MUST BE full weight on ground, Tracking jacked wont work as angles change as suspension moves.
Pain in the ass to adjust rods as mine is 10mm drop!! Icon_biggrin

Honda nu arde uleiul, il foloseste.

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Razvane sunt cei de la car setup din TG-Jiu care se lauda ca fac lucruri de genul asta:

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da, pana la urma am schimbat ulei, placute spate, echlibrat rotile de vara si puse sus. Scump rau la asko geometria, 250 ron iar ca sa verific ce am acum 150 ron, in conditiile in care prin oras peste tot e la jumatate.

Cand oi lua camber arms si bolts atunci mi-o fac pana atunci o las asa ca nu trage dr/stg si cauciucurile nu au nici o uzura neuniforma. M-am agitat si io ca pestele pe uscat, degeaba Icon_razz

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in trafic Icon_smile

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am incheiat prima sesiune de track, masina s-a comportat exemplar in schimb eu am cam lasat de dorit, cel putin nu-s multumit deloc cum merg, dar stiu ce e de facut si o sa ma apuc de exersat.

Una peste alta mi-a placut la nebunie, e diferenta maxima fata de mersul pe strazile publice, dar a fost si infricosator, cel putin cand am intrat prima data si am vazut ca virajele nu-s deloc asa cum par in film Icon_smile in schimb aderenta fenomenala, cred ca doar pe cauciuc ar fi mai bine.

ceva poze si o sa urc mai incolo si vreo doua filmulete.

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doua rosii Icon_smile
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adi in departare (asta s-a dat cu vw-aginistii)
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si regina balului in carne si oase care dadea flacari de balaur
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