https://www.hondatalk.ro/ Fri, 01 May 2026 00:20:23 +0000 MyBB https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-Honda-HR-V-1-5-i-VTEC-tremura-la-pornire Thu, 24 Aug 2023 20:54:30 +0000 darksage1989]]> https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-Honda-HR-V-1-5-i-VTEC-tremura-la-pornire
Mai are cineva probleme similare cu modelele recente de la Honda?

P.S: masina a avut probleme in trecut si cu pierderea presiunii la lantul de distributie. Am semnalat problema in repetate randuri, abia in 2022 a fost schimbat sistemul de distribuție. In 2023 a revenit, am semnalat din nou problema, dupa care a fost inlocuit VTEC-ul.

Sent from my SM-S916B using Tapatalk]]>
Mai are cineva probleme similare cu modelele recente de la Honda?

P.S: masina a avut probleme in trecut si cu pierderea presiunii la lantul de distributie. Am semnalat problema in repetate randuri, abia in 2022 a fost schimbat sistemul de distribuție. In 2023 a revenit, am semnalat din nou problema, dupa care a fost inlocuit VTEC-ul.

Sent from my SM-S916B using Tapatalk]]> https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-Sunet-ambreiaj Sat, 19 Feb 2022 00:55:44 +0000 Mihai 95]]> https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-Sunet-ambreiaj https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-CHECK-AWD Fri, 05 Oct 2018 10:26:04 +0000 laurfanaru]]> https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-CHECK-AWD

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk]]>

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk]]> https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-S4C-vs-S80 Sat, 30 Sep 2017 14:53:25 +0000 heg3]]> https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-S4C-vs-S80 https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-CLUTCH-DRAG-KILLS-SYNCHROS Tue, 20 Jan 2015 10:40:32 +0000 kinky_boy]]> https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-CLUTCH-DRAG-KILLS-SYNCHROS clutch issues. Please read below for tips on how to recognize a clutch problem before it ruins your transmission. Becoming aware of clutch problems could save you thousands of dollars in transmission repairs in the future.

1)The transmission should never feel notchy or block you from a gear while shifting (some people call it ‘lockout’). If this happens, NEVER force the transmission into gear or the synchro will be ruined! This applies at any engine RPM. If it shifts smooth at low RPM, but it blocks you at high RPM, there is a clutch problem and it must be fixed immediately! When a transmission blocks you from a gear, you are experiencing what we call ‘clutch drag’. This means the clutch is not letting go of the disk fully and dragging on the assembly. An adjustment might need to be made, or the clutch could be excessively warped at the pressure plate. If the transmission won’t go into gear at all, the clutch is severely warped or broken, STOP and do not drive the car or transmission damage will occur!

2)When launching, do not ride the clutch. Riding the clutch is when someone stays in the clutch ‘friction zone’ too long and overheats the unit. When a clutch is in the friction zone, it is using friction to operate and move the car forward. If you stay in the friction zone too long, the unit will build up enough heat to damage the assembly. This can quickly warp the pressure plate and cause clutch drag, which will then cause the transmission to feel notchy when shifting.

When you launch, just give the clutch smooth and quick engagement without sitting in the friction zone. You want to stay out of the friction zone to prevent overheating, but you do not want to dump and shock the clutch either as that will break other parts. Staying in between the two can be tricky, but if you find yourself riding the clutch, let off the gas immediately and stop. Let the assembly cool for at least 15 minutes, and then try again. Do not launch over and over again, as even smooth and proper launching repeatedly will overheat the unit if not enough time is taken to allow cooling.

3)Do not shock load the clutch. Shock loading is when the driver lets the clutch go too harshly, and quickly, and allows the clutch to engage so violently that it puts a shock through the system. Shock loading while launching, or shifting, can pop the rivets of a sprung hub clutch disk and cause the clutch to drag, which will kill the transmission. Shock loading can also break Tran’s gears, CV shafts, and other drive-train components. Shock loading doesn’t make you any faster and is very harmful to many parts.

4)Become familiar with the feel of your clutch and transmission. If at any time the clutch feels different, or the transmission doesn’t shift smoothly, something is wrong. STOP and do not continue driving the car. Check for clutch drag, check the hydraulic system, or worst case, pull the clutch back out and check it too. The feel of a clutch and transmission should never change, if it does, something is wrong. Becoming familiar and aware of the feel of your clutch and transmission will help prevent costly repairs in the future. Clutches are a device that uses friction to operate, so it will warp, and it will wear out in time. It’s when the driver can notice a change, and not ignore it, that saves your transmission! Having to rebuild your transmission every time the clutch wears out, or breaks, is something that should never have to be done. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us via phone 719-268-6011 or email sales@jackstransmissions.com

CLUTCH DRAG IS SERIOUS

Improper clutch adjustment, or dragging clutch assembly, will destroy your new unit. Damaged synchros due to improper clutch engagement will VOID YOUR WARRANTY!! If we receive the unit back damaged due to the clutch, we will know! 95% of all transmission failures are caused by clutch related issues. It is terribly important that the vehicle does not have clutch drag.

To test is simple:

With the vehicle running, disengage the e-brake so it can roll.
Push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there.
Turn off your launch limiter so the engine can hit the rev limiter. You MUST DO THIS!! If you do not, then there is no point in performing this test.
Shift the car into 1st gear.
Rev the engine up, while the clutch pedal is depressed all the way to the floor, until you feel the car start to move forward.
If the vehicle moves forward below the rev limiter, your clutch is dragging. Do not drive until the problem is fixed, or your synchros will be ruined! Unit will also be hard to shift, so DON’T DRIVE OR FORCE IT INTO GEAR! If everything is correct, the vehicle will not move. If the vehicle moves forward or is hard to shift, check each of the following:

Adjust the master cylinder under the dash. Video of how to do this HERE
Bleed your hydraulic clutch system and make sure you have a factory master cylinder from the dealer ONLY! Do not use generic auto parts store/eBay masters.
Check for improperly torqued block-to-bell-housing bolts, flywheel, or pressure plate.
There should be 2 dowel pins to properly center the transmission with the engine. If they are missing or damaged, the clutch will be out of alignment and will not work properly.
Check for missing block-to-bell-housing bolts. If any are missing the transmission can be pushed away from the engine which can crack the bell housing and make the clutch drag.
Make sure the throw out bearing fork is not hitting the bell-housing when the clutch pedal is depressed. Proper pivot ball shimming is HERE.
Check for incorrect flywheel step height. Most aftermarket flywheels are stepped too tight.
Check for warped flywheel, floater or pressure plate surfaces.
You may have a bad clutch pedal ‘z-bar’ (1G DSM ONLY).
You may have a broken or bent clutch disk due to improper installation.

Question: Why do you need to rev the engine so high to check for clutch drag?

Answer: Clutches can drag if they are subjected to excessive engine harmonics and crankshaft torsional whip. In order to increase the engine harmonics, to test for drag, the engine RPMs need to be up high. Most engines don’t develop severe harmonics through the clutch until 5k RPM or higher.


Note: Unit is shipped empty and must be filled with oil after it is installed in the vehicle. OEM fluid is recommended for most vehicles and driving conditions.

For our Mitsubishi transmission rebuilds we recommend factory Mitsubishi transmission gear oil. More info HERE, you can buy it HERE. If available, the EVO MR 6-Speed oil is the best oil to use as it has the perfect blend of friction modifiers to keep the transmission shifting smoothly and prevent gear failure. Gear oil choice is very important and varies based on preloads and synchro blocker ring design, therefore it is strongly recommended that you stick with Mitsubishi fluid for our transmissions. If you are unable to locate Mitsubishi MR 6-speed oil from the Mitsubishi dealer or us, you can use Redline MT90 (higher horsepower or race applications) gear oil. DO NOT use Synchromesh, BG Synchroshift I or II, or Royal Purple. These fluids will destroy synchros and gears and void your warranty!

WHAT IS CLUTCH DRAG AND WHY SHOULD I CARE?

When a clutch drags, it is not letting go of the disk fully which overloads the synchros and burns up the friction surfaces quickly. Synchros work by speeding up or slowing down the input shaft and clutch disk by acting like a brake. If the clutch is dragging, the synchro friction surface is trying to speed up and slow down the engine’s mass, which is impossible. The synchro will burn up, fail and the transmission has just been ruined. We believe that the synchros in all manual transmissions are brilliantly engineered and should last the life of the vehicle. If your synchros went bad and the transmission needed to be rebuilt, ask yourself why. If we claim the synchros, including the originals, should never go bad then why were yours bad? A dragging clutch is a very serious issue that is not taken seriously by the installers of your transmission and/or clutch!! It is important to be 100% sure your clutch is not dragging or you will ruin the new synchros again in short time. Synchro damage due to a dragging clutch will not be covered under our warranty. If the transmission is ruined due to a dragging clutch it will have to be rebuilt all over again. Save time and money by not burning them up and making sure the clutch is not dragging. Symptoms of a dragging clutch:


Synchros start to grind requiring a rebuild.

If the original synchros were ruined from a dragging clutch, then your new transmission will also be ruined if the issue is not fixed!
Shifting feels notchy and there is resistance while trying to shift.

If the synchro is fighting you, it means that the assembly is having a hard time synchronizing the gear. DO NOT FORCE IT INTO GEAR! A dragging clutch will make the synchros work terribly hard so shifting will not be smooth.
EVO8-10 will not go into 1st or Reverse at idle with twin disk Exedy clutch.

This is a known issue with the Exedy twin disks and is in our FAQ HERE with a fix for the problem. Again, if the transmission is forced into gear the synchros will be damaged. This problem MUST be fixed before the vehicle is driven!
I have a new clutch, so I don’t need to check for a dragging issue.

Wrong! 90% of new aftermarket clutches drag right out of the box. Many need adjustments for more throw under the dash or the pivot ball shimmed. Videos of how to do this are also on the jackstransmissions.com website.
I have a 7.25” twin disk and they don’t drag.

Wrong! Small twin disk clutches can also drag badly. Warped floaters can make them drag worse than any single disk clutch out there.

Can’t shift at high RPM.

Most clutches will drag at high RPM if there is a problem. If you miss a shift or have a hard time going into gear at high RPM, the clutch is dragging and needs to be fixed.
We cannot stress enough how important it is to be sure your clutch does not drag. Jacks Transmissions has the longest warranty in the business and we value our customers. We want our customers to have not only a long trouble free service life from their unit, but we want it to perform perfectly as well. A dragging clutch can kill your transmission within only a few shifts as the synchros are fragile. It doesn’t matter what they are made of or if they are double or triple synchro, they will be ruined if the clutch drags, period.
Please feel free to email us at sales@jackstransmissions.com if you have any questions or concerns over your clutch. We want to help and would be more than happy to be sure everything is right so you get the best performance possible out of your new transmission! Please review the other sheet to check for a dragging clutch as checking for a dragging clutch is simple and easy to do.


link: http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pages/...s-synchros]]> clutch issues. Please read below for tips on how to recognize a clutch problem before it ruins your transmission. Becoming aware of clutch problems could save you thousands of dollars in transmission repairs in the future.

1)The transmission should never feel notchy or block you from a gear while shifting (some people call it ‘lockout’). If this happens, NEVER force the transmission into gear or the synchro will be ruined! This applies at any engine RPM. If it shifts smooth at low RPM, but it blocks you at high RPM, there is a clutch problem and it must be fixed immediately! When a transmission blocks you from a gear, you are experiencing what we call ‘clutch drag’. This means the clutch is not letting go of the disk fully and dragging on the assembly. An adjustment might need to be made, or the clutch could be excessively warped at the pressure plate. If the transmission won’t go into gear at all, the clutch is severely warped or broken, STOP and do not drive the car or transmission damage will occur!

2)When launching, do not ride the clutch. Riding the clutch is when someone stays in the clutch ‘friction zone’ too long and overheats the unit. When a clutch is in the friction zone, it is using friction to operate and move the car forward. If you stay in the friction zone too long, the unit will build up enough heat to damage the assembly. This can quickly warp the pressure plate and cause clutch drag, which will then cause the transmission to feel notchy when shifting.

When you launch, just give the clutch smooth and quick engagement without sitting in the friction zone. You want to stay out of the friction zone to prevent overheating, but you do not want to dump and shock the clutch either as that will break other parts. Staying in between the two can be tricky, but if you find yourself riding the clutch, let off the gas immediately and stop. Let the assembly cool for at least 15 minutes, and then try again. Do not launch over and over again, as even smooth and proper launching repeatedly will overheat the unit if not enough time is taken to allow cooling.

3)Do not shock load the clutch. Shock loading is when the driver lets the clutch go too harshly, and quickly, and allows the clutch to engage so violently that it puts a shock through the system. Shock loading while launching, or shifting, can pop the rivets of a sprung hub clutch disk and cause the clutch to drag, which will kill the transmission. Shock loading can also break Tran’s gears, CV shafts, and other drive-train components. Shock loading doesn’t make you any faster and is very harmful to many parts.

4)Become familiar with the feel of your clutch and transmission. If at any time the clutch feels different, or the transmission doesn’t shift smoothly, something is wrong. STOP and do not continue driving the car. Check for clutch drag, check the hydraulic system, or worst case, pull the clutch back out and check it too. The feel of a clutch and transmission should never change, if it does, something is wrong. Becoming familiar and aware of the feel of your clutch and transmission will help prevent costly repairs in the future. Clutches are a device that uses friction to operate, so it will warp, and it will wear out in time. It’s when the driver can notice a change, and not ignore it, that saves your transmission! Having to rebuild your transmission every time the clutch wears out, or breaks, is something that should never have to be done. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us via phone 719-268-6011 or email sales@jackstransmissions.com

CLUTCH DRAG IS SERIOUS

Improper clutch adjustment, or dragging clutch assembly, will destroy your new unit. Damaged synchros due to improper clutch engagement will VOID YOUR WARRANTY!! If we receive the unit back damaged due to the clutch, we will know! 95% of all transmission failures are caused by clutch related issues. It is terribly important that the vehicle does not have clutch drag.

To test is simple:

With the vehicle running, disengage the e-brake so it can roll.
Push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there.
Turn off your launch limiter so the engine can hit the rev limiter. You MUST DO THIS!! If you do not, then there is no point in performing this test.
Shift the car into 1st gear.
Rev the engine up, while the clutch pedal is depressed all the way to the floor, until you feel the car start to move forward.
If the vehicle moves forward below the rev limiter, your clutch is dragging. Do not drive until the problem is fixed, or your synchros will be ruined! Unit will also be hard to shift, so DON’T DRIVE OR FORCE IT INTO GEAR! If everything is correct, the vehicle will not move. If the vehicle moves forward or is hard to shift, check each of the following:

Adjust the master cylinder under the dash. Video of how to do this HERE
Bleed your hydraulic clutch system and make sure you have a factory master cylinder from the dealer ONLY! Do not use generic auto parts store/eBay masters.
Check for improperly torqued block-to-bell-housing bolts, flywheel, or pressure plate.
There should be 2 dowel pins to properly center the transmission with the engine. If they are missing or damaged, the clutch will be out of alignment and will not work properly.
Check for missing block-to-bell-housing bolts. If any are missing the transmission can be pushed away from the engine which can crack the bell housing and make the clutch drag.
Make sure the throw out bearing fork is not hitting the bell-housing when the clutch pedal is depressed. Proper pivot ball shimming is HERE.
Check for incorrect flywheel step height. Most aftermarket flywheels are stepped too tight.
Check for warped flywheel, floater or pressure plate surfaces.
You may have a bad clutch pedal ‘z-bar’ (1G DSM ONLY).
You may have a broken or bent clutch disk due to improper installation.

Question: Why do you need to rev the engine so high to check for clutch drag?

Answer: Clutches can drag if they are subjected to excessive engine harmonics and crankshaft torsional whip. In order to increase the engine harmonics, to test for drag, the engine RPMs need to be up high. Most engines don’t develop severe harmonics through the clutch until 5k RPM or higher.


Note: Unit is shipped empty and must be filled with oil after it is installed in the vehicle. OEM fluid is recommended for most vehicles and driving conditions.

For our Mitsubishi transmission rebuilds we recommend factory Mitsubishi transmission gear oil. More info HERE, you can buy it HERE. If available, the EVO MR 6-Speed oil is the best oil to use as it has the perfect blend of friction modifiers to keep the transmission shifting smoothly and prevent gear failure. Gear oil choice is very important and varies based on preloads and synchro blocker ring design, therefore it is strongly recommended that you stick with Mitsubishi fluid for our transmissions. If you are unable to locate Mitsubishi MR 6-speed oil from the Mitsubishi dealer or us, you can use Redline MT90 (higher horsepower or race applications) gear oil. DO NOT use Synchromesh, BG Synchroshift I or II, or Royal Purple. These fluids will destroy synchros and gears and void your warranty!

WHAT IS CLUTCH DRAG AND WHY SHOULD I CARE?

When a clutch drags, it is not letting go of the disk fully which overloads the synchros and burns up the friction surfaces quickly. Synchros work by speeding up or slowing down the input shaft and clutch disk by acting like a brake. If the clutch is dragging, the synchro friction surface is trying to speed up and slow down the engine’s mass, which is impossible. The synchro will burn up, fail and the transmission has just been ruined. We believe that the synchros in all manual transmissions are brilliantly engineered and should last the life of the vehicle. If your synchros went bad and the transmission needed to be rebuilt, ask yourself why. If we claim the synchros, including the originals, should never go bad then why were yours bad? A dragging clutch is a very serious issue that is not taken seriously by the installers of your transmission and/or clutch!! It is important to be 100% sure your clutch is not dragging or you will ruin the new synchros again in short time. Synchro damage due to a dragging clutch will not be covered under our warranty. If the transmission is ruined due to a dragging clutch it will have to be rebuilt all over again. Save time and money by not burning them up and making sure the clutch is not dragging. Symptoms of a dragging clutch:


Synchros start to grind requiring a rebuild.

If the original synchros were ruined from a dragging clutch, then your new transmission will also be ruined if the issue is not fixed!
Shifting feels notchy and there is resistance while trying to shift.

If the synchro is fighting you, it means that the assembly is having a hard time synchronizing the gear. DO NOT FORCE IT INTO GEAR! A dragging clutch will make the synchros work terribly hard so shifting will not be smooth.
EVO8-10 will not go into 1st or Reverse at idle with twin disk Exedy clutch.

This is a known issue with the Exedy twin disks and is in our FAQ HERE with a fix for the problem. Again, if the transmission is forced into gear the synchros will be damaged. This problem MUST be fixed before the vehicle is driven!
I have a new clutch, so I don’t need to check for a dragging issue.

Wrong! 90% of new aftermarket clutches drag right out of the box. Many need adjustments for more throw under the dash or the pivot ball shimmed. Videos of how to do this are also on the jackstransmissions.com website.
I have a 7.25” twin disk and they don’t drag.

Wrong! Small twin disk clutches can also drag badly. Warped floaters can make them drag worse than any single disk clutch out there.

Can’t shift at high RPM.

Most clutches will drag at high RPM if there is a problem. If you miss a shift or have a hard time going into gear at high RPM, the clutch is dragging and needs to be fixed.
We cannot stress enough how important it is to be sure your clutch does not drag. Jacks Transmissions has the longest warranty in the business and we value our customers. We want our customers to have not only a long trouble free service life from their unit, but we want it to perform perfectly as well. A dragging clutch can kill your transmission within only a few shifts as the synchros are fragile. It doesn’t matter what they are made of or if they are double or triple synchro, they will be ruined if the clutch drags, period.
Please feel free to email us at sales@jackstransmissions.com if you have any questions or concerns over your clutch. We want to help and would be more than happy to be sure everything is right so you get the best performance possible out of your new transmission! Please review the other sheet to check for a dragging clutch as checking for a dragging clutch is simple and easy to do.


link: http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pages/...s-synchros]]> https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-Parere-cutie-viteze-Civic-Diesel Thu, 06 Jun 2013 10:42:23 +0000 Tomas]]> https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-Parere-cutie-viteze-Civic-Diesel cutie de viteze?? Mulțumesc.]]> cutie de viteze?? Mulțumesc.]]> https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-Conversie-auto-pe-manuala Thu, 16 May 2013 14:51:58 +0000 417431]]> https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-Conversie-auto-pe-manuala Afara de cutie ambreiaj ce mai trebuie facut? ECU ramane la fel? Se merita macar ?Merci]]> Afara de cutie ambreiaj ce mai trebuie facut? ECU ramane la fel? Se merita macar ?Merci]]> https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-ce-ambreiaj-recomandati-pe-ctr-fn2 Sat, 13 Apr 2013 12:26:58 +0000 doc_tyby]]> https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-ce-ambreiaj-recomandati-pe-ctr-fn2 https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-Sincroane-Syncrotech Thu, 07 Feb 2013 08:16:02 +0000 bo9dan]]> https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-Sincroane-Syncrotech
va trebui sa-mi schimb sincroanele (1-6) in viitorul apropiat si as vrea sa stiu daca sa merg pe OEM sau aftermarket (syncrotech), masina - EP3
care ar fi mai ok ? ..]]>
va trebui sa-mi schimb sincroanele (1-6) in viitorul apropiat si as vrea sa stiu daca sa merg pe OEM sau aftermarket (syncrotech), masina - EP3
care ar fi mai ok ? ..]]> https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-Coroana-volanta Fri, 11 Jan 2013 11:34:54 +0000 manasel]]> https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-Coroana-volanta https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-S4C-conversie-LSD-Helllp Tue, 01 Mar 2011 12:34:01 +0000 Vali_Lj]]> https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-S4C-conversie-LSD-Helllp Sunt blocat intr-un punct cu conversia cutiei S4C la LSD. Momentan am piesele esentiale pentru conversie ( LSD , FD) dar m-am blocat cand vine vorba de rulmenti datorita dimensiunilor... aici e buba mare :

oem EK4 91005-PS1-003 (40x80x18) Bile(non LSD)
oem EK9 91005-P80-003 (40x80x17) Role/Cilindri
oem ITR 91005-P80-E31 (40x80x18/19.5) Bile

Se poate observa ca cel non lsd cat si cel de ITR/MB/Crv au o dimensiune diferita.
Nu stiu care dintre ei sa-i folosesc , avand in vedere ca cutia de EK9 este aceeasi cu cea de EK4 diferenta fiind LSD si sincroanele duble as putea zice ca un swap direct fara altceva nu ar fi nici o problema dar in majoritatea descrierilor cu privire la cutia de EK9 vin niste saibe distantiere. Acum sunt 2 posibilitati , ori vin saibele doar la rulmentii tip ROLE/Cilindrii ori vin in orice situatie. Aceeasi rulmenti, autoblocant se ii putem gasit la dealeri honda de pe state (la cutiile de 98 Integra 3Door Type R)
Pun cateva poze cat si descreri ale saibeleor distantiere

EK4 S4c non lsd
EK9 S4C LSD
MB S9B LSD
ITR USA
Ma intreb daca mai sunt alte piese care merita/trebuiesc schimbate daca tot desfac cutia sau ce piese sa inspectez ....
Helllllllp . ]]> Sunt blocat intr-un punct cu conversia cutiei S4C la LSD. Momentan am piesele esentiale pentru conversie ( LSD , FD) dar m-am blocat cand vine vorba de rulmenti datorita dimensiunilor... aici e buba mare :

oem EK4 91005-PS1-003 (40x80x18) Bile(non LSD)
oem EK9 91005-P80-003 (40x80x17) Role/Cilindri
oem ITR 91005-P80-E31 (40x80x18/19.5) Bile

Se poate observa ca cel non lsd cat si cel de ITR/MB/Crv au o dimensiune diferita.
Nu stiu care dintre ei sa-i folosesc , avand in vedere ca cutia de EK9 este aceeasi cu cea de EK4 diferenta fiind LSD si sincroanele duble as putea zice ca un swap direct fara altceva nu ar fi nici o problema dar in majoritatea descrierilor cu privire la cutia de EK9 vin niste saibe distantiere. Acum sunt 2 posibilitati , ori vin saibele doar la rulmentii tip ROLE/Cilindrii ori vin in orice situatie. Aceeasi rulmenti, autoblocant se ii putem gasit la dealeri honda de pe state (la cutiile de 98 Integra 3Door Type R)
Pun cateva poze cat si descreri ale saibeleor distantiere

EK4 S4c non lsd
EK9 S4C LSD
MB S9B LSD
ITR USA
Ma intreb daca mai sunt alte piese care merita/trebuiesc schimbate daca tot desfac cutia sau ce piese sa inspectez ....
Helllllllp . ]]> https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-Celebrul-tremurat-la-plecarea-de-pe-loc-a-motorului-R18A Fri, 04 Feb 2011 09:28:16 +0000 w33bb0]]> https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-Celebrul-tremurat-la-plecarea-de-pe-loc-a-motorului-R18A
Si-am parcurs vreo 20 de metri cu motorul la 6000 rpm, insa cu ambreiajul doar cat sa miste masina. Rezultatul? Pe langa mirosul imbietor care a umplut imediat zona, ambreiajul s-a reparat ca prin minune. N-am mai tremurat DELOC.

Sa-mi mai spuna mie cineva ca e din arcuri, din volanta, placa de presiune, rulment, furca sau cilindru! Este discul de ambreiaj realizat din mamaliga! Niciuna din componentele ansamblului ambreiaj nu se poate repara si strica dupa cum ii tuna, MAI ALES in conditii de temperaturi extreme. Insa materialul de pe disc se poate uza inegal, iar apoi se poate egaliza fara niciun fel de problema.

Alte pareri?

PS: cu rugamintea sa nu transformam thread-ul asta in "si mie-mi face" / "mie nu-mi face, cred ca nu stii tu sa pleci de pe loc" / "calitatea si fiabilitatea Honda bla bla".]]>
Si-am parcurs vreo 20 de metri cu motorul la 6000 rpm, insa cu ambreiajul doar cat sa miste masina. Rezultatul? Pe langa mirosul imbietor care a umplut imediat zona, ambreiajul s-a reparat ca prin minune. N-am mai tremurat DELOC.

Sa-mi mai spuna mie cineva ca e din arcuri, din volanta, placa de presiune, rulment, furca sau cilindru! Este discul de ambreiaj realizat din mamaliga! Niciuna din componentele ansamblului ambreiaj nu se poate repara si strica dupa cum ii tuna, MAI ALES in conditii de temperaturi extreme. Insa materialul de pe disc se poate uza inegal, iar apoi se poate egaliza fara niciun fel de problema.

Alte pareri?

PS: cu rugamintea sa nu transformam thread-ul asta in "si mie-mi face" / "mie nu-mi face, cred ca nu stii tu sa pleci de pe loc" / "calitatea si fiabilitatea Honda bla bla".]]> https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-Raporturi-ale-cutie-de-viteze-baza-de-date Thu, 20 Jan 2011 15:16:49 +0000 yulasinio]]> https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-Raporturi-ale-cutie-de-viteze-baza-de-date Y1 (JDM Civic / CRX SiR 1989-1991)
1st gear Ratio 3.166
2nd gear Ratio 2.052
3rd gear Ratio 1.416
4th gear Ratio 1.103
5th gear Ratio 0.87
Final Drive Ratio 4.266

S1/YS1 (US Integra RS/LS/GS 1990-1993)
1st gear Ratio 3.23
2nd gear Ratio 1.9
3rd gear Ratio 1.269
4th gear Ratio 0.066
5th gear Ratio 0.742
Final Drive Ratio 4.266

S1 (90-93 Integra LS/RS)
1st gear Ratio 3.25
2nd gear Ratio 2.052
3rd gear Ratio 1.416
4th gear Ratio 1.103
5th gear Ratio 0.87
Final Drive Ratio 4.133

S1/J1 (JDM Integra DA6 Integra Xsi 1989-1990)
1st gear Ratio 3.23
2nd gear Ratio 2.105
3rd gear Ratio 1.458
4th gear Ratio 1.107
5th gear Ratio 0.848
Final Drive Ratio 4.4

S80 (Integra LS / RS GS 94+ )
1st gear Ratio 3.25
2nd gear Ratio 2.052
3rd gear Ratio 1.416
4th gear Ratio 1.103
5th gear Ratio 0.87
Final Drive Ratio 4.133

Y20/S80 (US Integra GSR 1994-2001)
1st gear Ratio 3.23
2nd gear Ratio 1.9
3rd gear Ratio 1.36
4th gear Ratio 1.034
5th gear Ratio 0.787
Final Drive Ratio 4.4

S40 (US D16Y SOHC VTEC 1992-1995)
1st gear Ratio 3.25
2nd gear Ratio 1.909
3rd gear Ratio 1.25
4th gear Ratio 0.909
5th gear Ratio 0.702
Final Drive Ratio 4.25

D15Z1 1992-1995 Civic
1st gear Ratio 3.25
2nd gear Ratio 1.761
3rd gear Ratio 1.066
4th gear Ratio 0.852
5th gear Ratio 0.702
Final Drive Ratio 3.25

D15B7 1992-1995 Civic
1st gear Ratio 3.25
2nd gear Ratio 1.761
3rd gear Ratio 1.172
4th gear Ratio 0.909
5th gear Ratio 0.702
Final Drive Ratio 4.058

D16Y5 / D16Y7 2000 Civic
1st gear Ratio 3.25
2nd gear Ratio 1.782
3rd gear Ratio 1.172
4th gear Ratio 0.909
5th gear Ratio 0.702
Final Drive Ratio 3.722

D16Y7 2000 Civic Coupe / Sedan
1st gear Ratio 3.25
2nd gear Ratio 1.782
3rd gear Ratio 1.172
4th gear Ratio 0.909
5th gear Ratio 0.702
Final Drive Ratio 4.058

D16Y8 2000 Civic
1st gear Ratio 3.25
2nd gear Ratio 1.909
3rd gear Ratio 1.125
4th gear Ratio 0.909
5th gear Ratio 0.702
Final Drive Ratio 4.25

D16Z6 1992 - 1995 Civic Hatch & Sedan
1st gear Ratio 3.25
2nd gear Ratio 1.909
3rd gear Ratio 1.125
4th gear Ratio 0.909
5th gear Ratio 0.702
Final Drive Ratio 4.25

D16Z6 1992 - 1995 Civic Coupe
1st gear Ratio 3.25
2nd gear Ratio 1.909
3rd gear Ratio 1.125
4th gear Ratio 0.909
5th gear Ratio 0.75
Final Drive Ratio 4.25

Y20/S80 (JDM SiR 1993)
1st gear Ratio 3.25
2nd gear Ratio 1.9
3rd gear Ratio 1.36
4th gear Ratio 1.034
5th gear Ratio 0.787
Final Drive Ratio 4.4

Y21/S21/S4C (US DelSol/CRX 1993)
1st gear Ratio 3.307
2nd gear Ratio 2.105
3rd gear Ratio 1.458
4th gear Ratio 1.107
5th gear Ratio 0.848
Final Drive Ratio 4.4

Y21/S21/S4C (US Civic Si 1999)
1st gear Ratio 3.23
2nd gear Ratio 2.105
3rd gear Ratio 1.458
4th gear Ratio 1.107
5th gear Ratio 0.875
Final Drive Ratio 4.266

Y21/S21/S80/S4C (US Integra Type R 1997 - 2001)
1st gear Ratio 3.23
2nd gear Ratio 2.105
3rd gear Ratio 1.458
4th gear Ratio 1.107
5th gear Ratio 0.848
Final Drive Ratio 4.4

Y21/S21/S80/S4C (JDM Civic SiR / Type R 1992)
1st gear Ratio 3.23
2nd gear Ratio 2.105
3rd gear Ratio 1.458
4th gear Ratio 1.107
5th gear Ratio 0.848
Final Drive Ratio 4.4

S80 (US Integra LS/GS 1994)
1st gear Ratio 3.23
2nd gear Ratio 1.9
3rd gear Ratio 1.269
4th gear Ratio 0.966
5th gear Ratio 0.714
Final Drive Ratio 4.266

Y21/S21/S80/S4C (JDM Integra Type R 1995 1997)
1st gear Ratio 3.23
2nd gear Ratio 2.105
3rd gear Ratio 1.458
4th gear Ratio 1.107
5th gear Ratio 0.848
Final Drive Ratio 4.4

S80 (JDM Integra Type R 1998 2001)
1st gear Ratio 3.23
2nd gear Ratio 2.105
3rd gear Ratio 1.458
4th gear Ratio 1.034
5th gear Ratio 0.787
Final Drive Ratio 4.785

H22A 1997 Prelude
1st gear Ratio 3.23
2nd gear Ratio 1.956
3rd gear Ratio 1.344
4th gear Ratio 1.034
5th gear Ratio 0.821
Final Drive Ratio 4.266]]> Y1 (JDM Civic / CRX SiR 1989-1991)
1st gear Ratio 3.166
2nd gear Ratio 2.052
3rd gear Ratio 1.416
4th gear Ratio 1.103
5th gear Ratio 0.87
Final Drive Ratio 4.266

S1/YS1 (US Integra RS/LS/GS 1990-1993)
1st gear Ratio 3.23
2nd gear Ratio 1.9
3rd gear Ratio 1.269
4th gear Ratio 0.066
5th gear Ratio 0.742
Final Drive Ratio 4.266

S1 (90-93 Integra LS/RS)
1st gear Ratio 3.25
2nd gear Ratio 2.052
3rd gear Ratio 1.416
4th gear Ratio 1.103
5th gear Ratio 0.87
Final Drive Ratio 4.133

S1/J1 (JDM Integra DA6 Integra Xsi 1989-1990)
1st gear Ratio 3.23
2nd gear Ratio 2.105
3rd gear Ratio 1.458
4th gear Ratio 1.107
5th gear Ratio 0.848
Final Drive Ratio 4.4

S80 (Integra LS / RS GS 94+ )
1st gear Ratio 3.25
2nd gear Ratio 2.052
3rd gear Ratio 1.416
4th gear Ratio 1.103
5th gear Ratio 0.87
Final Drive Ratio 4.133

Y20/S80 (US Integra GSR 1994-2001)
1st gear Ratio 3.23
2nd gear Ratio 1.9
3rd gear Ratio 1.36
4th gear Ratio 1.034
5th gear Ratio 0.787
Final Drive Ratio 4.4

S40 (US D16Y SOHC VTEC 1992-1995)
1st gear Ratio 3.25
2nd gear Ratio 1.909
3rd gear Ratio 1.25
4th gear Ratio 0.909
5th gear Ratio 0.702
Final Drive Ratio 4.25

D15Z1 1992-1995 Civic
1st gear Ratio 3.25
2nd gear Ratio 1.761
3rd gear Ratio 1.066
4th gear Ratio 0.852
5th gear Ratio 0.702
Final Drive Ratio 3.25

D15B7 1992-1995 Civic
1st gear Ratio 3.25
2nd gear Ratio 1.761
3rd gear Ratio 1.172
4th gear Ratio 0.909
5th gear Ratio 0.702
Final Drive Ratio 4.058

D16Y5 / D16Y7 2000 Civic
1st gear Ratio 3.25
2nd gear Ratio 1.782
3rd gear Ratio 1.172
4th gear Ratio 0.909
5th gear Ratio 0.702
Final Drive Ratio 3.722

D16Y7 2000 Civic Coupe / Sedan
1st gear Ratio 3.25
2nd gear Ratio 1.782
3rd gear Ratio 1.172
4th gear Ratio 0.909
5th gear Ratio 0.702
Final Drive Ratio 4.058

D16Y8 2000 Civic
1st gear Ratio 3.25
2nd gear Ratio 1.909
3rd gear Ratio 1.125
4th gear Ratio 0.909
5th gear Ratio 0.702
Final Drive Ratio 4.25

D16Z6 1992 - 1995 Civic Hatch & Sedan
1st gear Ratio 3.25
2nd gear Ratio 1.909
3rd gear Ratio 1.125
4th gear Ratio 0.909
5th gear Ratio 0.702
Final Drive Ratio 4.25

D16Z6 1992 - 1995 Civic Coupe
1st gear Ratio 3.25
2nd gear Ratio 1.909
3rd gear Ratio 1.125
4th gear Ratio 0.909
5th gear Ratio 0.75
Final Drive Ratio 4.25

Y20/S80 (JDM SiR 1993)
1st gear Ratio 3.25
2nd gear Ratio 1.9
3rd gear Ratio 1.36
4th gear Ratio 1.034
5th gear Ratio 0.787
Final Drive Ratio 4.4

Y21/S21/S4C (US DelSol/CRX 1993)
1st gear Ratio 3.307
2nd gear Ratio 2.105
3rd gear Ratio 1.458
4th gear Ratio 1.107
5th gear Ratio 0.848
Final Drive Ratio 4.4

Y21/S21/S4C (US Civic Si 1999)
1st gear Ratio 3.23
2nd gear Ratio 2.105
3rd gear Ratio 1.458
4th gear Ratio 1.107
5th gear Ratio 0.875
Final Drive Ratio 4.266

Y21/S21/S80/S4C (US Integra Type R 1997 - 2001)
1st gear Ratio 3.23
2nd gear Ratio 2.105
3rd gear Ratio 1.458
4th gear Ratio 1.107
5th gear Ratio 0.848
Final Drive Ratio 4.4

Y21/S21/S80/S4C (JDM Civic SiR / Type R 1992)
1st gear Ratio 3.23
2nd gear Ratio 2.105
3rd gear Ratio 1.458
4th gear Ratio 1.107
5th gear Ratio 0.848
Final Drive Ratio 4.4

S80 (US Integra LS/GS 1994)
1st gear Ratio 3.23
2nd gear Ratio 1.9
3rd gear Ratio 1.269
4th gear Ratio 0.966
5th gear Ratio 0.714
Final Drive Ratio 4.266

Y21/S21/S80/S4C (JDM Integra Type R 1995 1997)
1st gear Ratio 3.23
2nd gear Ratio 2.105
3rd gear Ratio 1.458
4th gear Ratio 1.107
5th gear Ratio 0.848
Final Drive Ratio 4.4

S80 (JDM Integra Type R 1998 2001)
1st gear Ratio 3.23
2nd gear Ratio 2.105
3rd gear Ratio 1.458
4th gear Ratio 1.034
5th gear Ratio 0.787
Final Drive Ratio 4.785

H22A 1997 Prelude
1st gear Ratio 3.23
2nd gear Ratio 1.956
3rd gear Ratio 1.344
4th gear Ratio 1.034
5th gear Ratio 0.821
Final Drive Ratio 4.266]]> https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-Reparare-cutie-viteze-seria-B Thu, 30 Dec 2010 12:01:15 +0000 yulasinio]]> https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-Reparare-cutie-viteze-seria-B http://www.te37.com/hosting/nof3ar/hgear/gear.htm

Part numbers for or everything that comes with the JDM ITR Final Drive kit (courtesy of hondaswap.com):
41233-P80-E30 : 4.785 DIFERENTIAL RING GEAR
23421-P80-E30 : COUNTERSHAFT FIRST GEAR
91107-P80-E30 : FIRST GEAR NEEDLE BEARING (x2)
23914-P80-E30 : COLLAR RING
23221-P80-E30 : 4.785 COUNTERSHAFT

Parts numbers for Differential:
41200-P80-003 : ITR LSD
91005-P80-E31 : Differential ball bearings (x2)


41xxx-Pxx-B00 : 80mm Differential shim (for use with the enclosed differential ball bearings [91005-P80-E31])

- use the 79.5mm diameter shim for the tapered roller bearings

Misc. Other & Replacement Parts:
91216-PH8-005 : Clutch Housing Mainshaft Oil Seal [optional or as needed]
91002-PS1-003 : Clutch Housing Mainshaft Bearing (28x60x15) [optional or as needed]

91101-P80-008 : Clutch Housing Countershaft Bearing (33x60x20) [optional or as needed]
91205-PL3-A01 : Clutch Housing Axle Seal (35x56x8) [optional or as needed]

72mm Mainshaft thrust shim [as needed]

23927-PG2-A00 : Mainshaft Spring Washer (28mm)
91205-PC9-711 : Gear Housing Axle Seal (40x62x8) [optional or as needed]

91211-P21-008 : 1st Gear (Lower) Friction Dampener [optional or as needed]
91212-P21-008 : 2nd Gear (Upper) Friction Dampener [optional or as needed]
91105-P21-003 : 2nd Gear Needle Bearing [optional or as needed]
90202-PH8-000 : Countershaft Lock Nut (23mm)

23926-P21-000 : Washer (23mm) [optional or as needed]
91003-P21-003 : Countershaft Ball Bearing [optional or as needed]
91102-P21-003 : Countershaft Roller Bearing (25x52.2x15) [optional or as needed]

Start Procedure:
___________________________________________________________________________________
1. Opening the Casing
Set the tranny bellhousing on 2'x4's to keep the input shaft from bottoming out.

Remove the VSS. Remove the (1) 10mm bolt. Twist/wiggle the VSS a little and pull up.


Remove the two plugs and 5/16" ball bearings on the bottom of the tranny that stake the 1st/2nd and 3rd/4th shift forks.


Casing bolt loosening pattern.


One of the casing bolts secures the reverse light switch to the casing.


Two more of the casing bolts secure the tranny hanger (Hanger A) to the casing.


You also need to remove the other tranny hanger (Hanger B) to get to one of the casing bolts.



All the bolts are the same length, so you don't need to worry about marking any odd-length bolts to their original locations.


Remove the 32mm sealing bolt with a 1/2" drive ratchet.


This is the snap ring under the 32mm sealing bolt. Expand it with a pair of snap ring pliers. You can spin the ring around to get better positioning on it.
Locked position


Unlocked position - You'll hear the countershaft drop when you've expanded the snap ring enough.


Remove the reverse idler gear shaft bolt on the top of the tranny casing. I forgot to do it before popping the casing open. Oops.


Pry here and the casing will come up and then you can pull it straight up off the bottom of the bellhousing.


A couple of shots of the gear sets. Differential - countershaft - mainshaft/input shaft (from left to right in both pics).



Inside of the tranny casing.


Tranny magnet just below the change holder.


All the hardware that should have come off the tranny to this point.


Reverse change holder needs to be removed by taking out those two 10mm bolts.


Reverse idler gear and idler shaft after removing the reverse change holder.


Remove the reverse idler gear and shaft by pulling up and wiggling it out.


After removing the reverse idler change holder, gear, and shaft.


Checking a few clearances....maybe I'll elaborate later and put in the tolerance ranges.








___________________________________________________________________________________
2. Removing the Gearset & Differential
Remove the change holder assy for the forward gears by taking out three 10mm bolts. Two at the bottom and one on the opposite side of the change holder.



Pull out the change holder shaft.
Edit: Lt. Dan GSR says not to pull the change holder shaft and to just remove the (3) 10mm bolts to remove the assy. He says it's hard to put back in if you do it that way. He would know better...I've only done one other tranny.



Change holder assy. I put the shaft back in after removing it.


The change holder uses different bolt lengths. One (lighter color) is shorter than the other two (darker).


After removing the change holder assy. Time to remove both the gearsets and shift forks.


The mainshaft, countershaft, and shift forks are removed as a whole unit. Hold the two shafts and three forks together and pull them upwards with a little finesse to get them to ease out.


These guys hang around after removing the gearsets. Spring washer (it's the concave one) on bottom and washer on top. (As seen in above diagram.)


Clutch housing after removing the gear sets and shift forks. You can now see the clutch housing counter and main shaft bearings.


Now remove the differential assy. Pull it straight up to get it out of the clutch housing.


Gear housing side of the differential.


Clutch housing side of the differential.


___________________________________________________________________________________
3. Installing the New FD, LSD, and Differential Ball Bearings

Tapered roller bearings. You won't be using these kind on the LSD. It's recommended that you switch over to the enclosed differential ball bearings to make it easier to measure the clearance needed b/w the differential and gear housing.


You can see the separate outer race for the tapered roller bearings here in the clutch housing. There is a 2.5mm thick thrust shim directly underneath the outer race, sandwiched b/w the differential outer race and the axle seal.


The new ones differential bearings are enclosed and no longer use the separate outer race or the thrust shim behind the outer race in the clutch housing. Front and back view of the enclosed bearings shown here.


Remove the (10) 14mm bolts to separate the final drive gear from the differential: The bolts are reverse-thread, so it's righty-loosey, lefty-tightey. The only reason I separated the two was to reuse the bolts. If you buy (10) new ones and are installing a new differential and final drive, you won't have to mess with this part.


New ITR LSD and JDM ITR 4.785:1 final drive ring gear.


Put the new ring gear onto the differential.


Rotate the ring gear on the differential to get the holes to line up. It shouldn't be fussy and slide around as smooth as buttah.


Clean the bolts with brake parts cleaner to remove the oil.


Apply threadlocker to the (10) bolts.


I used a 14mm deep socket on a short extension to quickly thread the bolts in. Remember that the bolts are reverse-thread.


Clamp the differential/ring gear assy into a table clamp with two planks of wood. Torque the bolts to 74.5lb*ft. Hopefully your's is mounted to a table...unlike mine. I really had to fight it to torque the bolts down.


Lube up the differential bearing and differential with MTF. Place the the bearing onto the differential.


I used a a plank of wood to get it as far down as possible and then 1 5/8" socket to knock the bearing all the way down onto the differential.


Done with that clutch housing side.


Done with the gear housing side.


Something I noticed is that the enclosed bearings don't leave as much differential exposed as the old exposed bearings. I'm hoping that this it normal and maybe Dan or Willard will confirm this. It makes sense that it would be like that b/c the old bearings mate with an outer race that's in the tranny casing halves. The new ones don't have that outer race in the casing halves.


Old exposed differential bearings on gear housing side


New enclosed differential bearings on gear housing side


Before we check the differential-to-housing clearances to determine what new shim thickness we need, we need to remove the outer races interference press-fit into the housings.
I'm not sure if it's mandatory to remove the axle seals to hammer out the outer races, but since I had replacements already, I did it anyways. I used a nut driver and hammer to knock the axle seals outwards. They come out really easily, so you don't need to pound them really hard.
Clutch housing side


One punch and it'll push it out...


...and you can pick it up with your hand.


Gear housing side - removing the axle seal.


Flip the clutch housing over so you can hammer out the outer race on this side.


I used a seal installer to drive it out. A few gentle thwacks and it comes out pretty easily.


The shim (left) and outer race (right) - in order of assembly.


Drive out the outer race on the gear housing.


This side had two shims and then the outer race. Since we switched to the enclosed ball bearings, we will no longer use a 79.5mm shim. Instead, we'll only be using a single 80mm diameter shim on the gear housing and no shims on the clutch housing side.


This is how the outer race interfaces with the tapered roller bearings.



Put a little MTF on the outside of the ball bearing and gently put the differential assy into the clutch housing. Use one hand from underneath to support the differential to keep it from banging around when trying to let it drop down into the hole. It should just gently fall into the hole without any hammering. Altho, the manual has recommended it if you can't get it to drop it easily.



___________________________________________________________________________________
4. Setting Differential Thrust Clearance

Put the gear housing back on to check the differential-to-casing clearance. Don't use any Hondabond to seal the casing.


Torque the bolts to 20lb*ft. Have another person hold the tranny while you torque them down, or do like I did b/c everybody else went out to dinner.


Make sure that the differential is seated all the way down into the casing before measuring. You can do this with a driver and hammer. This will help to ensure that you get an accurate reading.

Check the differential-to-casing clearance.


Specified clearance = 0.0mm-.10mm (0.000"-.004")


Insert feeler gauges here. I used angled feeler gauges to make the measurement easier.


Without an 80mm shim already in the tranny (b/c I didn't have one), I had to stack a couple of feeler gauges together to measure the clearance. These are the 4 that I narrowed it down to. I paired one of the three on top with the .021" feeler gauge to go up/down a thousandth.


.021"+.022" = .043" Too loose
.021"+.023" = .044" Slides in with a little drag
.021"+.024" = .045" Slides in with a little more effort
I'm gonna say that it's b/w .044" and .045". Then we do a little math to get the appropriate shim thickness to buy.
.044" - .004" = .040" shim
.045" - .004" = .041" shim

With that calculated shim thickness, we go to the shim table and pick out the shim with the thickness that matches .040"-.041" the best.
Shim K = .0413"
Using shim K, gives me a clearance of (.045" or .044") - .0413" = .0037" to .0027"....under our .004" target clearance.

I could also use Shim B to tighten up the tolerance by .0020" to get a final clearance of .0017" to .0007". I prefer to be on the tight side, so in this case, I'd recommend the B shim over the K shim.


When you get the new shim, use a pair of snap ring pliers to insert the shim into the recess. This is the shim K I just got installed.


Once again, put the gear housing back on, and test the differential thrust clearance.


In my case, I ordered the 80mm K shim (.0413"). What I found out was that it still had .007" of clearance when my calculations predicted a .0037" clearance.


So, I went back and looked at the chart and picked out another shim, shim L (.0453"). I also picked up a shim C (.0472") just in case. When I checked the thrust clearance with the C shim, it came out to .004". That whole ordeal was pretty odd, but it's something you should be aware of and ready to expect. I left it at that and moved on.

___________________________________________________________________________________
5. Disassembling the Countershaft
Lock down the countershaft into the bench clamp. Use the 2'x4's in b/w the countershaft and clamp teeth to keep from marring the countershaft.


Unstake the countershaft lock nut as best as you can with a screwdriver or punch and hammer.

Use a pneumatic or electric impact gun and a 32mm socket to loosen the countershaft lock nut. It'll shear off any of the staking away when it busts loose, so you don't need to worry about the staking too much.


Remove the countershaft lock nut and spring washer. It's up to you whether or not you want to replace the spring washer or not, but it's mandatory to replace the lock nut.


Remove the press-fit countershaft ball bearing. The countershaft ball bearing is what locks into the retaining clip on the gear housing behind the 32mm sealing bolt.


Remove the countershaft roller bearing's outer sleeve first before installing the bearing puller.

Remove the press-fit roller bearing with the bearing puller.



Remove the 5th, 4th, 3rd, then remove 2nd gear, 1st-2nd gear synchros, and 1st gear as one. They should all just slide off, but in the case that they don't, you can use the puller in the same fashion as above to remove the gears.

After removing the gears and synchros, you'll be left with the countershaft, thrust shim, and needle bearings.


Gearset in order of removal from left to right.


You will not be reusing the first gear, first gear needle bearings, countershaft, and countershaft thrust shim anymore. You can pack that stuff up and sell it along with the differential and final drive ring gear.

Remove the friction damper and synchro hub/ring from the 1st gear. Those two items will be reused on the JDM ITR first gear, unless you choose to replace them as wear items. Clean them with brake parts cleaner and wipe them off with a clean, lintless rag before moving onto the next step.

___________________________________________________________________________________
6. Assembling JDM ITR Countershaft

These are the parts that make up the 1st gear assy. From the top left, counter clockwise: JDM ITR needle bearings, JDM ITR ring collar, 1st gear (lower) friction damper [reused], synchro ring & spring [reused], JDM ITR first gear.


This is how the 1st gear assy pieces together:

The two needle bearings go on the ring collar.


Then the first gear slips over and around the ring collar & needle bearings.


The lower friction damper sits tight in the first gear.


The friction damper has a particular orientation that's dependent on the synchro hub. More on that later.


The synchro ring presses down onto the first gear.


Fully assembled first gear assy.


Now for the actual assembly of the countershaft.


Separate the ring collar & needle bearings and lower friction damper from the first gear assy.

Lube up the countershaft and ring collar first and then install the ring collar on the JDM ITR countershaft. You may need to twist it a little while pushing down on it to finesse it all the way down. It should slide all the way down to the top of the FD gear with minimal resistance.


The pair of needle bearing halves sit on the ring collar, and the first gear rides on the needle bearings. You can lube up and put the needle bearing halves onto the ring collar now or wait until you have the first two gears assembled before installing the needle bearings.


I find it easier to assemble the first gear, 1-2 synchro, and second gear into one piece before installing it on the countershaft.

Synchro hub - bottom side shown (this side faces towards the first gear assy


Take the 1st/2nd gear synchro hub, flip it upside, and set the 1st gear (lower) friction damper so that the tabs fall into the slots on the synchro hub.


Flip the first gear assy upside-down and mate it to the synchro hub so that the alignment tabs on the synchro ring match the slots on the synchro hub [Pic]. This will properly orient and seat the friction damper into the first gear. You can flip it back over and lift up the synchro hub and the friction dampener will be stuck into the first gear in the proper orientation.


This is the top side of the synchro hub. The three little dimples interface with the hooks on the upper friction damper.
]]> http://www.te37.com/hosting/nof3ar/hgear/gear.htm

Part numbers for or everything that comes with the JDM ITR Final Drive kit (courtesy of hondaswap.com):
41233-P80-E30 : 4.785 DIFERENTIAL RING GEAR
23421-P80-E30 : COUNTERSHAFT FIRST GEAR
91107-P80-E30 : FIRST GEAR NEEDLE BEARING (x2)
23914-P80-E30 : COLLAR RING
23221-P80-E30 : 4.785 COUNTERSHAFT

Parts numbers for Differential:
41200-P80-003 : ITR LSD
91005-P80-E31 : Differential ball bearings (x2)


41xxx-Pxx-B00 : 80mm Differential shim (for use with the enclosed differential ball bearings [91005-P80-E31])

- use the 79.5mm diameter shim for the tapered roller bearings

Misc. Other & Replacement Parts:
91216-PH8-005 : Clutch Housing Mainshaft Oil Seal [optional or as needed]
91002-PS1-003 : Clutch Housing Mainshaft Bearing (28x60x15) [optional or as needed]

91101-P80-008 : Clutch Housing Countershaft Bearing (33x60x20) [optional or as needed]
91205-PL3-A01 : Clutch Housing Axle Seal (35x56x8) [optional or as needed]

72mm Mainshaft thrust shim [as needed]

23927-PG2-A00 : Mainshaft Spring Washer (28mm)
91205-PC9-711 : Gear Housing Axle Seal (40x62x8) [optional or as needed]

91211-P21-008 : 1st Gear (Lower) Friction Dampener [optional or as needed]
91212-P21-008 : 2nd Gear (Upper) Friction Dampener [optional or as needed]
91105-P21-003 : 2nd Gear Needle Bearing [optional or as needed]
90202-PH8-000 : Countershaft Lock Nut (23mm)

23926-P21-000 : Washer (23mm) [optional or as needed]
91003-P21-003 : Countershaft Ball Bearing [optional or as needed]
91102-P21-003 : Countershaft Roller Bearing (25x52.2x15) [optional or as needed]

Start Procedure:
___________________________________________________________________________________
1. Opening the Casing
Set the tranny bellhousing on 2'x4's to keep the input shaft from bottoming out.

Remove the VSS. Remove the (1) 10mm bolt. Twist/wiggle the VSS a little and pull up.


Remove the two plugs and 5/16" ball bearings on the bottom of the tranny that stake the 1st/2nd and 3rd/4th shift forks.


Casing bolt loosening pattern.


One of the casing bolts secures the reverse light switch to the casing.


Two more of the casing bolts secure the tranny hanger (Hanger A) to the casing.


You also need to remove the other tranny hanger (Hanger B) to get to one of the casing bolts.



All the bolts are the same length, so you don't need to worry about marking any odd-length bolts to their original locations.


Remove the 32mm sealing bolt with a 1/2" drive ratchet.


This is the snap ring under the 32mm sealing bolt. Expand it with a pair of snap ring pliers. You can spin the ring around to get better positioning on it.
Locked position


Unlocked position - You'll hear the countershaft drop when you've expanded the snap ring enough.


Remove the reverse idler gear shaft bolt on the top of the tranny casing. I forgot to do it before popping the casing open. Oops.


Pry here and the casing will come up and then you can pull it straight up off the bottom of the bellhousing.


A couple of shots of the gear sets. Differential - countershaft - mainshaft/input shaft (from left to right in both pics).



Inside of the tranny casing.


Tranny magnet just below the change holder.


All the hardware that should have come off the tranny to this point.


Reverse change holder needs to be removed by taking out those two 10mm bolts.


Reverse idler gear and idler shaft after removing the reverse change holder.


Remove the reverse idler gear and shaft by pulling up and wiggling it out.


After removing the reverse idler change holder, gear, and shaft.


Checking a few clearances....maybe I'll elaborate later and put in the tolerance ranges.








___________________________________________________________________________________
2. Removing the Gearset & Differential
Remove the change holder assy for the forward gears by taking out three 10mm bolts. Two at the bottom and one on the opposite side of the change holder.



Pull out the change holder shaft.
Edit: Lt. Dan GSR says not to pull the change holder shaft and to just remove the (3) 10mm bolts to remove the assy. He says it's hard to put back in if you do it that way. He would know better...I've only done one other tranny.



Change holder assy. I put the shaft back in after removing it.


The change holder uses different bolt lengths. One (lighter color) is shorter than the other two (darker).


After removing the change holder assy. Time to remove both the gearsets and shift forks.


The mainshaft, countershaft, and shift forks are removed as a whole unit. Hold the two shafts and three forks together and pull them upwards with a little finesse to get them to ease out.


These guys hang around after removing the gearsets. Spring washer (it's the concave one) on bottom and washer on top. (As seen in above diagram.)


Clutch housing after removing the gear sets and shift forks. You can now see the clutch housing counter and main shaft bearings.


Now remove the differential assy. Pull it straight up to get it out of the clutch housing.


Gear housing side of the differential.


Clutch housing side of the differential.


___________________________________________________________________________________
3. Installing the New FD, LSD, and Differential Ball Bearings

Tapered roller bearings. You won't be using these kind on the LSD. It's recommended that you switch over to the enclosed differential ball bearings to make it easier to measure the clearance needed b/w the differential and gear housing.


You can see the separate outer race for the tapered roller bearings here in the clutch housing. There is a 2.5mm thick thrust shim directly underneath the outer race, sandwiched b/w the differential outer race and the axle seal.


The new ones differential bearings are enclosed and no longer use the separate outer race or the thrust shim behind the outer race in the clutch housing. Front and back view of the enclosed bearings shown here.


Remove the (10) 14mm bolts to separate the final drive gear from the differential: The bolts are reverse-thread, so it's righty-loosey, lefty-tightey. The only reason I separated the two was to reuse the bolts. If you buy (10) new ones and are installing a new differential and final drive, you won't have to mess with this part.


New ITR LSD and JDM ITR 4.785:1 final drive ring gear.


Put the new ring gear onto the differential.


Rotate the ring gear on the differential to get the holes to line up. It shouldn't be fussy and slide around as smooth as buttah.


Clean the bolts with brake parts cleaner to remove the oil.


Apply threadlocker to the (10) bolts.


I used a 14mm deep socket on a short extension to quickly thread the bolts in. Remember that the bolts are reverse-thread.


Clamp the differential/ring gear assy into a table clamp with two planks of wood. Torque the bolts to 74.5lb*ft. Hopefully your's is mounted to a table...unlike mine. I really had to fight it to torque the bolts down.


Lube up the differential bearing and differential with MTF. Place the the bearing onto the differential.


I used a a plank of wood to get it as far down as possible and then 1 5/8" socket to knock the bearing all the way down onto the differential.


Done with that clutch housing side.


Done with the gear housing side.


Something I noticed is that the enclosed bearings don't leave as much differential exposed as the old exposed bearings. I'm hoping that this it normal and maybe Dan or Willard will confirm this. It makes sense that it would be like that b/c the old bearings mate with an outer race that's in the tranny casing halves. The new ones don't have that outer race in the casing halves.


Old exposed differential bearings on gear housing side


New enclosed differential bearings on gear housing side


Before we check the differential-to-housing clearances to determine what new shim thickness we need, we need to remove the outer races interference press-fit into the housings.
I'm not sure if it's mandatory to remove the axle seals to hammer out the outer races, but since I had replacements already, I did it anyways. I used a nut driver and hammer to knock the axle seals outwards. They come out really easily, so you don't need to pound them really hard.
Clutch housing side


One punch and it'll push it out...


...and you can pick it up with your hand.


Gear housing side - removing the axle seal.


Flip the clutch housing over so you can hammer out the outer race on this side.


I used a seal installer to drive it out. A few gentle thwacks and it comes out pretty easily.


The shim (left) and outer race (right) - in order of assembly.


Drive out the outer race on the gear housing.


This side had two shims and then the outer race. Since we switched to the enclosed ball bearings, we will no longer use a 79.5mm shim. Instead, we'll only be using a single 80mm diameter shim on the gear housing and no shims on the clutch housing side.


This is how the outer race interfaces with the tapered roller bearings.



Put a little MTF on the outside of the ball bearing and gently put the differential assy into the clutch housing. Use one hand from underneath to support the differential to keep it from banging around when trying to let it drop down into the hole. It should just gently fall into the hole without any hammering. Altho, the manual has recommended it if you can't get it to drop it easily.



___________________________________________________________________________________
4. Setting Differential Thrust Clearance

Put the gear housing back on to check the differential-to-casing clearance. Don't use any Hondabond to seal the casing.


Torque the bolts to 20lb*ft. Have another person hold the tranny while you torque them down, or do like I did b/c everybody else went out to dinner.


Make sure that the differential is seated all the way down into the casing before measuring. You can do this with a driver and hammer. This will help to ensure that you get an accurate reading.

Check the differential-to-casing clearance.


Specified clearance = 0.0mm-.10mm (0.000"-.004")


Insert feeler gauges here. I used angled feeler gauges to make the measurement easier.


Without an 80mm shim already in the tranny (b/c I didn't have one), I had to stack a couple of feeler gauges together to measure the clearance. These are the 4 that I narrowed it down to. I paired one of the three on top with the .021" feeler gauge to go up/down a thousandth.


.021"+.022" = .043" Too loose
.021"+.023" = .044" Slides in with a little drag
.021"+.024" = .045" Slides in with a little more effort
I'm gonna say that it's b/w .044" and .045". Then we do a little math to get the appropriate shim thickness to buy.
.044" - .004" = .040" shim
.045" - .004" = .041" shim

With that calculated shim thickness, we go to the shim table and pick out the shim with the thickness that matches .040"-.041" the best.
Shim K = .0413"
Using shim K, gives me a clearance of (.045" or .044") - .0413" = .0037" to .0027"....under our .004" target clearance.

I could also use Shim B to tighten up the tolerance by .0020" to get a final clearance of .0017" to .0007". I prefer to be on the tight side, so in this case, I'd recommend the B shim over the K shim.


When you get the new shim, use a pair of snap ring pliers to insert the shim into the recess. This is the shim K I just got installed.


Once again, put the gear housing back on, and test the differential thrust clearance.


In my case, I ordered the 80mm K shim (.0413"). What I found out was that it still had .007" of clearance when my calculations predicted a .0037" clearance.


So, I went back and looked at the chart and picked out another shim, shim L (.0453"). I also picked up a shim C (.0472") just in case. When I checked the thrust clearance with the C shim, it came out to .004". That whole ordeal was pretty odd, but it's something you should be aware of and ready to expect. I left it at that and moved on.

___________________________________________________________________________________
5. Disassembling the Countershaft
Lock down the countershaft into the bench clamp. Use the 2'x4's in b/w the countershaft and clamp teeth to keep from marring the countershaft.


Unstake the countershaft lock nut as best as you can with a screwdriver or punch and hammer.

Use a pneumatic or electric impact gun and a 32mm socket to loosen the countershaft lock nut. It'll shear off any of the staking away when it busts loose, so you don't need to worry about the staking too much.


Remove the countershaft lock nut and spring washer. It's up to you whether or not you want to replace the spring washer or not, but it's mandatory to replace the lock nut.


Remove the press-fit countershaft ball bearing. The countershaft ball bearing is what locks into the retaining clip on the gear housing behind the 32mm sealing bolt.


Remove the countershaft roller bearing's outer sleeve first before installing the bearing puller.

Remove the press-fit roller bearing with the bearing puller.



Remove the 5th, 4th, 3rd, then remove 2nd gear, 1st-2nd gear synchros, and 1st gear as one. They should all just slide off, but in the case that they don't, you can use the puller in the same fashion as above to remove the gears.

After removing the gears and synchros, you'll be left with the countershaft, thrust shim, and needle bearings.


Gearset in order of removal from left to right.


You will not be reusing the first gear, first gear needle bearings, countershaft, and countershaft thrust shim anymore. You can pack that stuff up and sell it along with the differential and final drive ring gear.

Remove the friction damper and synchro hub/ring from the 1st gear. Those two items will be reused on the JDM ITR first gear, unless you choose to replace them as wear items. Clean them with brake parts cleaner and wipe them off with a clean, lintless rag before moving onto the next step.

___________________________________________________________________________________
6. Assembling JDM ITR Countershaft

These are the parts that make up the 1st gear assy. From the top left, counter clockwise: JDM ITR needle bearings, JDM ITR ring collar, 1st gear (lower) friction damper [reused], synchro ring & spring [reused], JDM ITR first gear.


This is how the 1st gear assy pieces together:

The two needle bearings go on the ring collar.


Then the first gear slips over and around the ring collar & needle bearings.


The lower friction damper sits tight in the first gear.


The friction damper has a particular orientation that's dependent on the synchro hub. More on that later.


The synchro ring presses down onto the first gear.


Fully assembled first gear assy.


Now for the actual assembly of the countershaft.


Separate the ring collar & needle bearings and lower friction damper from the first gear assy.

Lube up the countershaft and ring collar first and then install the ring collar on the JDM ITR countershaft. You may need to twist it a little while pushing down on it to finesse it all the way down. It should slide all the way down to the top of the FD gear with minimal resistance.


The pair of needle bearing halves sit on the ring collar, and the first gear rides on the needle bearings. You can lube up and put the needle bearing halves onto the ring collar now or wait until you have the first two gears assembled before installing the needle bearings.


I find it easier to assemble the first gear, 1-2 synchro, and second gear into one piece before installing it on the countershaft.

Synchro hub - bottom side shown (this side faces towards the first gear assy


Take the 1st/2nd gear synchro hub, flip it upside, and set the 1st gear (lower) friction damper so that the tabs fall into the slots on the synchro hub.


Flip the first gear assy upside-down and mate it to the synchro hub so that the alignment tabs on the synchro ring match the slots on the synchro hub [Pic]. This will properly orient and seat the friction damper into the first gear. You can flip it back over and lift up the synchro hub and the friction dampener will be stuck into the first gear in the proper orientation.


This is the top side of the synchro hub. The three little dimples interface with the hooks on the upper friction damper.
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