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		<title><![CDATA[HondaTalk - Admisie/Evacuare]]></title>
		<link>https://www.hondatalk.ro/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[HondaTalk - https://www.hondatalk.ro]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 25 Jun 2026 01:36:11 +0000</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Intake filter types/manufacturers reviews]]></title>
			<link>https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-Intake-filter-types-manufacturers-reviews</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 10 Dec 2021 15:14:32 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://www.hondatalk.ro/member.php?action=profile&uid=168">kinky_boy</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-Intake-filter-types-manufacturers-reviews</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[am gasit cananlul tipului asta si imi plac reviewurile lui, detaliile si testarea aplicata nu doar pareri. are review-uri pe mai multe elemente <br />
<br />
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/cAlTo5PEw2M" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="true"></iframe><br />
<br />
<br />
si OEM type vs High Flow  ( <img src="https://www.hondatalk.ro/images/smilies/icon_yikes.gif" alt="Icon_yikes" title="Icon_yikes" class="smilie smilie_191" /> )<br />
<br />
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/YypvDEQyNBY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="true"></iframe>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[am gasit cananlul tipului asta si imi plac reviewurile lui, detaliile si testarea aplicata nu doar pareri. are review-uri pe mai multe elemente <br />
<br />
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/cAlTo5PEw2M" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="true"></iframe><br />
<br />
<br />
si OEM type vs High Flow  ( <img src="https://www.hondatalk.ro/images/smilies/icon_yikes.gif" alt="Icon_yikes" title="Icon_yikes" class="smilie smilie_191" /> )<br />
<br />
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/YypvDEQyNBY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="true"></iframe>]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[CAI]]></title>
			<link>https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-CAI</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 16 Aug 2013 09:53:37 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://www.hondatalk.ro/member.php?action=profile&uid=209">Tomi</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-CAI</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCi2yo4UqPI" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCi2yo4UqPI</a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCi2yo4UqPI" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCi2yo4UqPI</a>]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[head porting]]></title>
			<link>https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-head-porting</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 14 Feb 2013 11:46:06 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://www.hondatalk.ro/member.php?action=profile&uid=45">LIVIU_CTS</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-head-porting</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[intake in b16a2]]></title>
			<link>https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-intake-in-b16a2</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 12 Feb 2013 15:06:49 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://www.hondatalk.ro/member.php?action=profile&uid=45">LIVIU_CTS</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-intake-in-b16a2</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[uite ce am gasit despre diversele combinatii de mani si throttle pe b16a2 head. ma macina gandul asta de mult, in sensul ca in intake mani de itr, cu plenum mai mare si runners mai scurte poate n-o sa creeze acelasi curent, aceeasi dinamica a aerului in admisie, periclitant amestecul. dupa testela unora se pare ca intake mani si throttle body de itr nu dau rezultatele scontate.<br />
o portare a inteake mani b16a ar fi solutia corecta.<br />
<hr class="mycode_hr" />
aditional info:<br />
<span style="font-style: italic;" class="mycode_i">Sorry forgot to mention, ALL tests are done with tuning each time with a hondata.<br />
There are about 10 different intake manifolds tested in the book all tuned to suit, B16A won each time in overall fatness of the curve. Then the ported one beat all in midrange and peak  This was on a Built B20 also</span><br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
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<!-- end: attachment_icon -->&nbsp;&nbsp;<a class="attachembed" href="attachment.php?aid=2283" target="_blank" title="">intakemanifoldskillerbee2.jpg</a> (Size: 116.75 KB / Downloads: 97)
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<img src="https://www.hondatalk.ro/images/attachtypes/image.gif" title="JPG Image" border="0" alt=".jpg" />
<!-- end: attachment_icon -->&nbsp;&nbsp;<a class="attachembed" href="attachment.php?aid=2281" target="_blank" title="">intakemanifolds.jpg</a> (Size: 109.94 KB / Downloads: 97)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment -->]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[uite ce am gasit despre diversele combinatii de mani si throttle pe b16a2 head. ma macina gandul asta de mult, in sensul ca in intake mani de itr, cu plenum mai mare si runners mai scurte poate n-o sa creeze acelasi curent, aceeasi dinamica a aerului in admisie, periclitant amestecul. dupa testela unora se pare ca intake mani si throttle body de itr nu dau rezultatele scontate.<br />
o portare a inteake mani b16a ar fi solutia corecta.<br />
<hr class="mycode_hr" />
aditional info:<br />
<span style="font-style: italic;" class="mycode_i">Sorry forgot to mention, ALL tests are done with tuning each time with a hondata.<br />
There are about 10 different intake manifolds tested in the book all tuned to suit, B16A won each time in overall fatness of the curve. Then the ported one beat all in midrange and peak  This was on a Built B20 also</span><br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><!-- start: attachment_icon -->
<img src="https://www.hondatalk.ro/images/attachtypes/image.gif" title="JPG Image" border="0" alt=".jpg" />
<!-- end: attachment_icon -->&nbsp;&nbsp;<a class="attachembed" href="attachment.php?aid=2284" target="_blank" title="">throttlebodies.jpg</a> (Size: 109.72 KB / Downloads: 89)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment --><br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><!-- start: attachment_icon -->
<img src="https://www.hondatalk.ro/images/attachtypes/image.gif" title="JPG Image" border="0" alt=".jpg" />
<!-- end: attachment_icon -->&nbsp;&nbsp;<a class="attachembed" href="attachment.php?aid=2283" target="_blank" title="">intakemanifoldskillerbee2.jpg</a> (Size: 116.75 KB / Downloads: 97)
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<br /><!-- start: attachment_icon -->
<img src="https://www.hondatalk.ro/images/attachtypes/image.gif" title="JPG Image" border="0" alt=".jpg" />
<!-- end: attachment_icon -->&nbsp;&nbsp;<a class="attachembed" href="attachment.php?aid=2282" target="_blank" title="">intakemanifoldskillerbee.jpg</a> (Size: 167.9 KB / Downloads: 88)
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<!-- end: attachment_icon -->&nbsp;&nbsp;<a class="attachembed" href="attachment.php?aid=2281" target="_blank" title="">intakemanifolds.jpg</a> (Size: 109.94 KB / Downloads: 97)
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			<title><![CDATA[in toba finala]]></title>
			<link>https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-in-toba-finala</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 17 Dec 2012 11:45:53 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://www.hondatalk.ro/member.php?action=profile&uid=48">nismo</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-in-toba-finala</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Buna ziua/seara tuturor, voiam sa va cer un sfat in legatura cu toba finala. <br />
S-a desprins peretele interior care este defapt un material ce seamana cu fibra de carbon invelit in plasa. Imi blocheaza evacuarea gazelor, oare ce se intampla daca scot scot plasa si materialul acela cu un patent?<br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
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<img src="https://www.hondatalk.ro/images/attachtypes/image.gif" title="JPG Image" border="0" alt=".jpg" />
<!-- end: attachment_icon -->&nbsp;&nbsp;<a class="attachembed" href="attachment.php?aid=2120" target="_blank" title="">2012-12-15-224.jpg</a> (Size: 381.61 KB / Downloads: 102)
<!-- end: postbit_attachments_attachment -->]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Buna ziua/seara tuturor, voiam sa va cer un sfat in legatura cu toba finala. <br />
S-a desprins peretele interior care este defapt un material ce seamana cu fibra de carbon invelit in plasa. Imi blocheaza evacuarea gazelor, oare ce se intampla daca scot scot plasa si materialul acela cu un patent?<br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
<br /><!-- start: attachment_icon -->
<img src="https://www.hondatalk.ro/images/attachtypes/image.gif" title="JPG Image" border="0" alt=".jpg" />
<!-- end: attachment_icon -->&nbsp;&nbsp;<a class="attachembed" href="attachment.php?aid=2120" target="_blank" title="">2012-12-15-224.jpg</a> (Size: 381.61 KB / Downloads: 102)
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[RRC pe EP3]]></title>
			<link>https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-RRC-pe-EP3</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 15 Oct 2012 18:37:16 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://www.hondatalk.ro/member.php?action=profile&uid=234">VladTNS</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-RRC-pe-EP3</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Salutare<br />
Am o mare dilema.....am o oferta buna la un RRC + clapeta si vroiam sa stiu daca se poate pune fara mari eforturi. Stiu ca la RBC pe langa a indoii sau taia partea din fata unde sta grila e plug and play...ish. dar din cate am vazut RRC-ul este mai mare si clapeta e pentru masini cu acceleratia pe senzor nu pe cablu + ca am vazut ca e mai curbat RRC-ul fata de galeria stoc.Stie cineva o rezolvare pentru asta? Please help]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Salutare<br />
Am o mare dilema.....am o oferta buna la un RRC + clapeta si vroiam sa stiu daca se poate pune fara mari eforturi. Stiu ca la RBC pe langa a indoii sau taia partea din fata unde sta grila e plug and play...ish. dar din cate am vazut RRC-ul este mai mare si clapeta e pentru masini cu acceleratia pe senzor nu pe cablu + ca am vazut ca e mai curbat RRC-ul fata de galeria stoc.Stie cineva o rezolvare pentru asta? Please help]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Intake Manifold Tech: Runner Size Calculations]]></title>
			<link>https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-Intake-Manifold-Tech-Runner-Size-Calculations</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 26 Sep 2012 11:00:31 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://www.hondatalk.ro/member.php?action=profile&uid=168">kinky_boy</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-Intake-Manifold-Tech-Runner-Size-Calculations</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[foarte util in alegerea unei galerii de intake sau de ce nu pentru cine vrea sa-si faca una <img src="https://www.hondatalk.ro/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif" alt="Icon_smile" title="Icon_smile" class="smilie smilie_100" /><br />
<br />
articolul original cu toate pozele este de pe link-ul <a href="http://www.team-integra.net/forum/blogs/michaeldelaney/130-intake-manifold-tech-runner-size-calculations.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://www.team-integra.net/forum/blogs/...tions.html</a><br />
<br />
<span style="text-decoration: underline;" class="mycode_u">Ceva linkuri cu concepte noi (cel putin pentru mine)</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;" class="mycode_b">Singh Grooves</span><br />
<a href="http://somender-singh.com/content/view/119/49/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://somender-singh.com/content/view/119/49/</a><br />
<a href="http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=5&amp;t=38910" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=5&amp;t=38910</a><br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;" class="mycode_b">Power Ringz valve</span><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.allpar.com/fix/holler/valve-prepping.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://www.allpar.com/fix/holler/valve-prepping.html</a><br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;" class="mycode_b">Power Lynz intake port</span><br />
<a href="http://www.allpar.com/fix/holler/performance-and-economy.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://www.allpar.com/fix/holler/perform...onomy.html</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
dar ca sa ramana si la noi in caz ca dispare de acolo un "scurt" copy paste:<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;" class="mycode_b">Intake Manifold Design for Single TB IM's with a Plenum</span><br />
<br />
B18B IM (left and closest to you in side view pic) and ITR IM (right): Notice the ITR IM has shorter runners with larger diameters compared to the longer tunnel ram runners of the B18B.<br />
<br />
DigsbyIM, Email, and Social Networks in one easy to use application!http://digsby.com<br />
DigsbyIM, Email, and Social Networks in one easy to use application!http://digsby.com<br />
<br />
Skunk2 IM for the GSR with it's shorter than ITR stock runners.<br />
<br />
DigsbyIM, Email, and Social Networks in one easy to use application!http://digsby.com<br />
<br />
<br />
When race engine builders talk about fuel injected engine "parts integration", one topic of the discussion is planning out where you want your powerband to be located along the rpm range .<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The induction system can be "tuned" or designed to have features which can improve the way the cylinder fills and determine where PEAK TORQUE will be located along the rpm range. This is what we call intentional "powerband location" placement.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The three features of an intake manifold with a plenum that<br />
determine peak torque location are it's:<br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.team-integra.net/images/BAEC1978-D3A7-4405-AB2D-2761DC15A96D/articles/tuan/manifold_calc/helmholtz.jpg" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: helmholtz.jpg]" class="mycode_img" /><br />
<br />
<br />
- plenum volume<br />
<br />
- runner length<br />
<br />
- runner area<br />
<br />
But before we proceed with how these 3 features affect cylinder filling, we should first understand how air flows in an intake manifold.<br />
<br />
DigsbyIM, Email, and Social Networks in one easy to use application!http://digsby.com<br />
<br />
<br />
I. RAM AIR THEORY<br />
<br />
Dry air is thought to behave like a compressible elastic fluid. In the "Ideas: Flow capacity, flow velocity, and flow quality" article, we discussed the differences between laminar versus turbulent fluid flow. However, instead of looking at fluid dynamics, mass air flow can also be looked at in terms of it's acoustic behaviour or behaviour as a sound wave and it's frequencies. <br />
<br />
Sound waves travel as undulating pulsations up and down an IM runner. These pulses have a frequency or resonance and carry energy. You'll be surprised to discover that air isn't just sucked into the engine but also can be forced through the engine's intake valves even in naturally aspirated setups.<br />
<br />
<br />
Figure 1. Air flow down an intake runner as a sound wave (acoustic<br />
resonance).<br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.team-integra.net/images/BAEC1978-D3A7-4405-AB2D-2761DC15A96D/articles/tuan/manifold_calc/_column_of_air.jpg" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: _column_of_air.jpg]" class="mycode_img" /><br />
<img src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/1/17/Wave_dynamics.gif" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: Wave_dynamics.gif]" class="mycode_img" /><br />
<br />
In a naturally aspirated engine, on the intake stroke, the piston<br />
drops creating an area of low pressure in the combustion chamber that is less than atmospheric pressure and as the intake valve opens, the air from the outside is set in motion down the IM runner.<br />
<br />
Once air (as a sound wave) has been set into motion down an IM runner, it does NOT simply stop when the intake valve is closed and wait for the intake valve to re-open. <br />
<br />
<br />
Instead, when the intake valve closes shut, this air sound wave bounces off the backface of the valve and travels at the speed of sound back up towards the IM plenum (rarefaction wave). This reflected wave has a frequency, amplitude, and negative pressure associated with it.<br />
<br />
Once the wave reaches the plenum, the resonance wave is isolated and the plenum chamber behaves like a resonance chamber. What is a resonance chamber?<br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.team-integra.net/images/BAEC1978-D3A7-4405-AB2D-2761DC15A96D/articles/tuan/manifold_calc/Grafico3.gif" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: Grafico3.gif]" class="mycode_img" /><br />
<br />
The analogy used by most mechanical engineers to explain how a resonance chamber works is that it acts like an oscillating spring (i.e. imagine the plenum acts like the spring) with a block attached on the end of the spring (imagine the air wave in the IM runner to behave like the block) . As the block compresses the spring, the spring builds or stores up energy and when the spring uncoils, the block is given a push or energy as it travels away from the spring's compressed pos.<br />
<br />
Like our block and spring, the air resonates ( or compresses the spring) at a certain frequency (spring bouncing back and forth) inside the plenum and gains energy (pressure) . The air wave is then bounced back at the speed of sound down the IM runner towards the intake valve again. But this time it has been given an extra "push" from the resonance chamber. The new sound wave going to the intake valve has a positive pressure and is travelling at a higher tone or energy (higher sound frequency).<br />
<br />
The bouncing back and forth of sound waves from the closed intake valve to the plenum and then back down again occurs over several intake valve openings continuously. Why does this happen?<br />
<br />
These reflected resonance waves don't reach the intake valve when it re-opens and therefore continue to reflect. This continues until several reflected air sound waves (or columns) stack up (amplified) at the closed intake valve. The energy (or pressure) of these amplified ( or stacked up ) reflected waves build up until they reach a maximum energy (and pressure).<br />
<br />
<br />
The trick to resonance (or sound) tuning of the IM is to have these maximally amplified waves arrive at the intake valve just as it opens . The basic mechanism of intake manifold "tuning" or design is to provide high pressure at the intake valve so that the mass flow rate into the cylinder is boosted at a given engine speed or rpm. We do this "tuning" by changing the IM runner length and diameter (area).<br />
<br />
By building up pressure from stacked resonating (or reflected) air sound waves (or columns) and releasing this "boost" at a specific rpm, you can get higher cylinder filling [ i.e. achieve a volumetric efficiency (VE) greater than the cylinder swept volume. The engine breathes at a VE &gt; 100% ] . The reflected positive pressure waves from the plenum, when it arrives at the right time, actually pushes in more air into the cylinder beyond the effects of the piston sucking in air. Not only do you control the location of where peak torque occurs by varying runner length and diameter, you get a gain in power by using the plenum's resonance effect. This is what we call " acoustic supercharging". <br />
<br />
Since Mopar was one of the first to use ram theory in a street car, check out:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.chrysler300club.com/uniq/.../ramtheory.htm" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://www.chrysler300club.com/uniq/.../ramtheory.htm</a><br />
<br />
it has a nice calculation to show how many times an air sound wave bounces back and forth before it finally reaches an intake valve that is open at your desired rpm. <br />
<br />
<br />
Plenum volumes will vary in size depending upon the application but the general rule is that FI setups require larger plenum volumes than N/A setups. So an STR or Venom IM with a huge plenum is too big for a N/A motor. Some experts suggest that the plenum volume for a peak torque somewhere from 5000-6000 rpm should be equal to 50-60% of the "equivalent" displacement in a 4 banger. On an N/A setup the equivalent displacement = actual displacement. On FI setups, the equivalent displacement = how much volume of air is blown into the motor.<br />
<br />
Peak volumetric efficiency occurs at peak torque. So when we "release" these built up amplified waves just at the right time into an opening intake valve, we get peak torque at that rpm.<br />
<br />
Therefore, by designing the IM with a certain plenum volume and runner<br />
size, you can control at what rpm the engine will achieve peak torque and more importantly, you will have more power gain at that peak torque rpm from acoustic supercharging. <br />
<br />
Here's a nice summary of resonance tuning using ram theory for an IM :<br />
<br />
<br />
Quote:<br />
Originally posted by Jim McFarland<br />
<br />
Every physical system has one or more "natural vibration" frequencies that are characteristic of that system . <br />
<br />
An organ pipe is a common example of how a resonant condition is displayed. Based upon the physical dimensions of an organ pipe, a flow of inlet air may produce a resonant tone or pitch.<br />
<br />
Changing the pipe's dimension, given the same amount of input air, could produce another resonant point or tone. <br />
<br />
With regard to an engine's intake {or exhaust} system, it is possible to dimension a passage to accommodate specific cylinder displacements and engine speed so that a "resonant" condition helps produce an increase in total air flow {intake or exhaust}. In it's simplest form, this amounts to "tuning" an inlet {or exhaust} passage. Physical dimensions of the passage are constructed to provide a resonant tuning point {particularly relative to rpm and valve timing} at which a "boost" in flow is produced. This results in an increase in cylinder filling {volumetric efficiency} and potential gains in torque.<br />
<br />
<br />
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<br />
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<br />
Notice that with invididual throttle bodies (ITB's) you lose this resonance effect because the reflected wave escapes out into the engine bay (or the atmosphere) and is not stored and returned by a plenum/acoustic chamber. ITB's do NOT use ram theory to get that extra kick at peak torque because they usually in race form do not ha a plenum. In some street ITB's, a plenum is attached for practical reasons (sound deadening and filtering). They rely on very very large amounts of passive cylinder filling based on the piston's effects and use tuned air horn height and tapered diameter (with an S-shaped velocity stack opening) to get the N/A pressure boost effect<br />
<br />
<br />
Jun IM Cutaway showing the velocity stack opening for the runner inside the plenum.<br />
<br />
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<br />
<br />
II. CALCULATIONS<br />
<br />
How do we calculate and design the IM dimensions so that the stacked columns of air waves arrive at a certain rpm ? <br />
<br />
There are 2 ways to calculate the dimensions for an IM. Using: <br />
<br />
<br />
1. Variable length runners formulas<br />
<br />
or <br />
<br />
2. A Helmholtz resonator method<br />
<br />
<br />
II A.) Variable Length Runners Formulas<br />
<br />
From the header tech article you have learned that longer tubes create peak torque at an earlier rpm. This is true whether you are lo at air flow in terms of a fluid or in terms of a sound wave.<br />
<br />
<br />
Quote:<br />
from <a href="http://info.connect.com.au/staff.con.../msg00764.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://info.connect.com.au/staff.con.../msg00764.html</a><br />
<br />
By choosing the length and diameter of the runners, an intake manifold can be "tuned" for optimum performance at a certain RPM range. <br />
<br />
Longer, narrower runners favor lower RPM's because they have a lower resonant frequency, and the smaller diameter helps increase the air velocity. <br />
<br />
Shorter, wider runners favor higher RPM's because they have a higher resonant frequency, and the larger diameter is less restrictive to air flow.<br />
<br />
...Choosing the right length and diameter of the intake runners is a trade off between high and low RPM performance. <br />
<br />
[Moderator's Note: we can use 2 sets of runners with different lengths in one IM in order to have 2 different peak torques and overcome this tradeoff. However, the penalty for using 2 sets of runners is an increase in surface area which diminishes flow quality at higher rpm and therefore limit upper rpm power (eg. Integra GSR's 2 stage IM with dual variable length runners ). The problem of added area is neatly solved in the new 4th generation Integra RSX Type S 2 stage IM by using a roller valve. ]<br />
<br />
<br />
1. / One Formula: David Vizard's Rule for IM Runner Length<br />
<br />
The general rule is that you should begin with a runner length of 17.8 cm for a 10,000 rpm peak torque location, from the intake opening to the plenum chamber. You add 4.3 cm to the runner length for every 1000 rpm that you want the peak torque to occur before the 10,000 rpm. <br />
<br />
So, for instance, if peak torque should occur at 4,000 rpm the total runner length should be 17.8 cm + (6 x 4.3 cm) = 43.6 cm.<br />
<br />
Vizard also suggests that you can calculate the ideal runner diameter by the equation :<br />
<br />
SQRT [ (target rpm for peak torque x Displacement x VE)/ 3330 ] <br />
<br />
SQRT = square root<br />
<br />
VE = Volumetric Efficiency in %<br />
<br />
Displacement in Liters<br />
<br />
<br />
eg.<br />
<br />
So if we want peak torque at 5800 rpm at 95% VE in a teg, VE = 0.95<br />
<br />
<br />
SQRT [ (5800x 1.8 L x 0.95)/3330] <br />
<br />
= 1.73 in. or 43.8 mm (1,73 x 25.4 mm/in.) is the ideal runner diameter.<br />
<br />
<br />
2./ Another Formula to Calculate Runner Length for a Specific Peak Torque RPM: from Steve Magnante at Hot Rod magazine <br />
<br />
<br />
N x L = 84,000 <br />
<br />
where N represents the desired engine rpm for peak torque and L is the length in inches from the opening of the runner tube to the valve head. <br />
<br />
3./ Website Calculator<br />
<br />
Or you can forget the formulas and just plug in the numbers and this calculator will crunch out the numbers for you:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html</a><br />
<br />
<br />
II B.) Helmholtz Resonator Calculations<br />
<br />
Remember at the start of the article I mentioned that the dimensions of 3 parts of an IM can affect where peak torque can occur? Well here is another way we can calculate estimates for our IM dimensions for the peak torque location we want. <br />
<br />
A Helmholtz resonator is an acoustic resonance chamber (as described by our plenum above) that modifies the acoustic frequency of a sound wave like a spring oscillating with a mass attached on the end.<br />
<br />
<br />
[img]http://www.team-integra.net/images]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
where f = the rpm at which you get peak torque ( the natural frequency of pressure oscillations in the acoustic chamber ) , c = the speed of sound (= 340 m/sec.) , S = runner area, L = runner length, V = displacement per cylinder<br />
<br />
A simplified version of this is using the Englemann formula for the above which also takes into account static CR of the engine:<br />
<br />
RPM for peak torque =<br />
<br />
642 x c x [ SQRT (S/[L x V] ) ] x [ SQRT { (CR-1)/ (CR+1) } ] <br />
<br />
<br />
= 218,280 x [ SQRT (S/[L x V] ) ] x [ SQRT { &copy;/ (CR+1) } ]<br />
<br />
<br />
For a more detailed explanation on the application of Hermann Ludwig Ferdinand von Helmholtz's acoustic resonator theory applied to intake systems, please check out:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://enaf1.tripod.com/teche.html#helm" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://enaf1.tripod.com/teche.html#helm</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.mecc.unipd.it/~cos/DINAMO...ore.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://www.mecc.unipd.it/~cos/DINAMO...ore.html</a>&lt;br /&gt;<br />
<br />
A Helmholtz resonator is used not only in an automotive induction sytem but also in the designing of exhausts to suppress sound and many other non-automotive designing that involves amplifying sound like in the music industry.<br />
<br />
III. RAM INTAKE TUBE DIMENSIONS<br />
<br />
What are the best intake tube dimensions for the IM that we have just designed for a particular peak torque rpm?<br />
<br />
<br />
III a./ INSIDE DIAMETER (D) of a RAM INTAKE TUBE <br />
<br />
<br />
[U]First Method[/]:<br />
<br />
<br />
D in inches = SQRT [ ( Displacement x VE x Redline) / (V x 18.5) ]<br />
<br />
Displacement = Total Displacement in Liters, VE = Volumetric Efficiency in %, V is the velocity of the air flow in the IM plenum for resonance (usually estimated at 180 ft/sec max.)<br />
<br />
<br />
eg. SQRT [ (1.8 x 85 x 8500) / (180 x 18.5) ]<br />
<br />
= SQRT [ (1,300,500)/ (3330) ]<br />
<br />
= SQRT (391)<br />
<br />
= 1.98 in.<br />
<br />
Second Method: <br />
<br />
Throttle Body Size is Determined by IM Plenum Size. <br />
<br />
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<br />
<br />
<br />
Quote:<br />
from the Dave Thompson of Thompson Engineering and Endyn: <a href="http://www.theoldone.com/archive/int...old-design.htm" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://www.theoldone.com/archive/int...old-design.htm</a><br />
<br />
The plenum volume is critical on N/A engines, and a basic rule of thumb is: The smaller the plenum, the lower the rpm range, and bigger means higher rpm. The throttle body size and flow rate also affect the plenum size: Bigger TB, smaller plenum, small TB, larger plenum. <br />
The best way to find out if your TB is too small for your IM plenum is to determine what the intake manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor is reading (in the plenum) when you are at full throttle ( or wide open throttle (WOT) ) while the car is accel using a datalogger. The MAP should be equal to, or close to, atmospheric pressure. If it isn't or there is a MAP drop at WOT, then your TB is still too small.<br />
<br />
A 70mm (at the intake side or TB opening) to 65mm bore (at the plate side) ITR taper bore TB: More than enough for most big N/A Teg engines.<br />
<br />
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<br />
Once we have determined the optimal TB size for our IM, we can then determine the best intake inner diameter. <br />
<br />
The ideal diameter for an intake is when the intake has 25% more cross-sectional area than the TB's bore cross-sectional area . Your TB diameter (overbored or not) dictates your intake diameter.<br />
<br />
Remember that the area of a circle (your TB bore) is pi x radius squared and the diameter = 2 x radius. If you calculate your TB's area and then multiply it by 1.33, you will determine the intake's area. Then, use the area of the circle equation to determine the intake's radius.<br />
<br />
Therefore, for example, with a 64mm (plate side bore) TB, the calculated "best" intake diameter is 2.8 in. ID.<br />
<br />
III. b/ LENGTH OF RAM INTAKE TUBE<br />
<br />
A suggested starting point for the length of a tube with peak torque at 6000 rpm is 13 in. <br />
<br />
You add 1.7 in. for every 1000 rpm that you want to move the peak torque below 6000. <br />
<br />
Or subtract 1.7 in. for every 1000 rpm you want to move the peak torque above 6000.<br />
<br />
For more info on specific intakes (short rams versus CAI's etc.) please refer to my intake tech article over at hondavision.com :<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.automotivetech.org/forum/...5" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://www.automotivetech.org/forum/...5</a>&amp;pagenumber=1<br />
<br />
<br />
----------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
<br />
<br />
Please remember that formulas only serve as starting points. To get the actual best IM runner dimensions and intake dimensions for your particular engine package takes a cut and try approach to zero in on the best dimensions for you.<br />
<br />
For more info on Integra Specific IM designs (Single Stage versus Dual Stage) please check out my IM Tech Article over at hondavision.com :<br />
<br />
[img]http://www.team-integra.net/images/BAEC19]<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.automotivetech.org/forum/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://www.automotivetech.org/forum/</a>...&amp;threadid=4673<br />
<br />
for those B18A/B and B18C1 owners looking for more top end and want to retro-fit an ITR IM onto their head, remember that the coolant &amp; oil passages and flange bolt holes don't align and you will need machine shop work to make them fit without coolant and vacuum leaks.<br />
<br />
Notice the flange holes and coolant passages (arrows) don't line up when you compare an ITR IM to a B18B IM:<br />
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<br />
There's a nice article on retro-fitting an ITR IM on a B18B here:<br />
<br />
B18B IM (affectionately known as "the Giraffe" for it's long narrow tunnel ram runners: no wonder the B18B powerband is midrange oriented.)<br />
<br />
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<a href="http://www.overboost.com/story.asp?id=85" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://www.overboost.com/story.asp?id=85</a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[foarte util in alegerea unei galerii de intake sau de ce nu pentru cine vrea sa-si faca una <img src="https://www.hondatalk.ro/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif" alt="Icon_smile" title="Icon_smile" class="smilie smilie_100" /><br />
<br />
articolul original cu toate pozele este de pe link-ul <a href="http://www.team-integra.net/forum/blogs/michaeldelaney/130-intake-manifold-tech-runner-size-calculations.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://www.team-integra.net/forum/blogs/...tions.html</a><br />
<br />
<span style="text-decoration: underline;" class="mycode_u">Ceva linkuri cu concepte noi (cel putin pentru mine)</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;" class="mycode_b">Singh Grooves</span><br />
<a href="http://somender-singh.com/content/view/119/49/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://somender-singh.com/content/view/119/49/</a><br />
<a href="http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=5&amp;t=38910" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=5&amp;t=38910</a><br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;" class="mycode_b">Power Ringz valve</span><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.allpar.com/fix/holler/valve-prepping.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://www.allpar.com/fix/holler/valve-prepping.html</a><br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;" class="mycode_b">Power Lynz intake port</span><br />
<a href="http://www.allpar.com/fix/holler/performance-and-economy.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://www.allpar.com/fix/holler/perform...onomy.html</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
dar ca sa ramana si la noi in caz ca dispare de acolo un "scurt" copy paste:<br />
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;" class="mycode_b">Intake Manifold Design for Single TB IM's with a Plenum</span><br />
<br />
B18B IM (left and closest to you in side view pic) and ITR IM (right): Notice the ITR IM has shorter runners with larger diameters compared to the longer tunnel ram runners of the B18B.<br />
<br />
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<br />
Skunk2 IM for the GSR with it's shorter than ITR stock runners.<br />
<br />
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<br />
<br />
When race engine builders talk about fuel injected engine "parts integration", one topic of the discussion is planning out where you want your powerband to be located along the rpm range .<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The induction system can be "tuned" or designed to have features which can improve the way the cylinder fills and determine where PEAK TORQUE will be located along the rpm range. This is what we call intentional "powerband location" placement.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The three features of an intake manifold with a plenum that<br />
determine peak torque location are it's:<br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.team-integra.net/images/BAEC1978-D3A7-4405-AB2D-2761DC15A96D/articles/tuan/manifold_calc/helmholtz.jpg" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: helmholtz.jpg]" class="mycode_img" /><br />
<br />
<br />
- plenum volume<br />
<br />
- runner length<br />
<br />
- runner area<br />
<br />
But before we proceed with how these 3 features affect cylinder filling, we should first understand how air flows in an intake manifold.<br />
<br />
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<br />
<br />
I. RAM AIR THEORY<br />
<br />
Dry air is thought to behave like a compressible elastic fluid. In the "Ideas: Flow capacity, flow velocity, and flow quality" article, we discussed the differences between laminar versus turbulent fluid flow. However, instead of looking at fluid dynamics, mass air flow can also be looked at in terms of it's acoustic behaviour or behaviour as a sound wave and it's frequencies. <br />
<br />
Sound waves travel as undulating pulsations up and down an IM runner. These pulses have a frequency or resonance and carry energy. You'll be surprised to discover that air isn't just sucked into the engine but also can be forced through the engine's intake valves even in naturally aspirated setups.<br />
<br />
<br />
Figure 1. Air flow down an intake runner as a sound wave (acoustic<br />
resonance).<br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.team-integra.net/images/BAEC1978-D3A7-4405-AB2D-2761DC15A96D/articles/tuan/manifold_calc/_column_of_air.jpg" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: _column_of_air.jpg]" class="mycode_img" /><br />
<img src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/1/17/Wave_dynamics.gif" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: Wave_dynamics.gif]" class="mycode_img" /><br />
<br />
In a naturally aspirated engine, on the intake stroke, the piston<br />
drops creating an area of low pressure in the combustion chamber that is less than atmospheric pressure and as the intake valve opens, the air from the outside is set in motion down the IM runner.<br />
<br />
Once air (as a sound wave) has been set into motion down an IM runner, it does NOT simply stop when the intake valve is closed and wait for the intake valve to re-open. <br />
<br />
<br />
Instead, when the intake valve closes shut, this air sound wave bounces off the backface of the valve and travels at the speed of sound back up towards the IM plenum (rarefaction wave). This reflected wave has a frequency, amplitude, and negative pressure associated with it.<br />
<br />
Once the wave reaches the plenum, the resonance wave is isolated and the plenum chamber behaves like a resonance chamber. What is a resonance chamber?<br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.team-integra.net/images/BAEC1978-D3A7-4405-AB2D-2761DC15A96D/articles/tuan/manifold_calc/Grafico3.gif" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: Grafico3.gif]" class="mycode_img" /><br />
<br />
The analogy used by most mechanical engineers to explain how a resonance chamber works is that it acts like an oscillating spring (i.e. imagine the plenum acts like the spring) with a block attached on the end of the spring (imagine the air wave in the IM runner to behave like the block) . As the block compresses the spring, the spring builds or stores up energy and when the spring uncoils, the block is given a push or energy as it travels away from the spring's compressed pos.<br />
<br />
Like our block and spring, the air resonates ( or compresses the spring) at a certain frequency (spring bouncing back and forth) inside the plenum and gains energy (pressure) . The air wave is then bounced back at the speed of sound down the IM runner towards the intake valve again. But this time it has been given an extra "push" from the resonance chamber. The new sound wave going to the intake valve has a positive pressure and is travelling at a higher tone or energy (higher sound frequency).<br />
<br />
The bouncing back and forth of sound waves from the closed intake valve to the plenum and then back down again occurs over several intake valve openings continuously. Why does this happen?<br />
<br />
These reflected resonance waves don't reach the intake valve when it re-opens and therefore continue to reflect. This continues until several reflected air sound waves (or columns) stack up (amplified) at the closed intake valve. The energy (or pressure) of these amplified ( or stacked up ) reflected waves build up until they reach a maximum energy (and pressure).<br />
<br />
<br />
The trick to resonance (or sound) tuning of the IM is to have these maximally amplified waves arrive at the intake valve just as it opens . The basic mechanism of intake manifold "tuning" or design is to provide high pressure at the intake valve so that the mass flow rate into the cylinder is boosted at a given engine speed or rpm. We do this "tuning" by changing the IM runner length and diameter (area).<br />
<br />
By building up pressure from stacked resonating (or reflected) air sound waves (or columns) and releasing this "boost" at a specific rpm, you can get higher cylinder filling [ i.e. achieve a volumetric efficiency (VE) greater than the cylinder swept volume. The engine breathes at a VE &gt; 100% ] . The reflected positive pressure waves from the plenum, when it arrives at the right time, actually pushes in more air into the cylinder beyond the effects of the piston sucking in air. Not only do you control the location of where peak torque occurs by varying runner length and diameter, you get a gain in power by using the plenum's resonance effect. This is what we call " acoustic supercharging". <br />
<br />
Since Mopar was one of the first to use ram theory in a street car, check out:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.chrysler300club.com/uniq/.../ramtheory.htm" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://www.chrysler300club.com/uniq/.../ramtheory.htm</a><br />
<br />
it has a nice calculation to show how many times an air sound wave bounces back and forth before it finally reaches an intake valve that is open at your desired rpm. <br />
<br />
<br />
Plenum volumes will vary in size depending upon the application but the general rule is that FI setups require larger plenum volumes than N/A setups. So an STR or Venom IM with a huge plenum is too big for a N/A motor. Some experts suggest that the plenum volume for a peak torque somewhere from 5000-6000 rpm should be equal to 50-60% of the "equivalent" displacement in a 4 banger. On an N/A setup the equivalent displacement = actual displacement. On FI setups, the equivalent displacement = how much volume of air is blown into the motor.<br />
<br />
Peak volumetric efficiency occurs at peak torque. So when we "release" these built up amplified waves just at the right time into an opening intake valve, we get peak torque at that rpm.<br />
<br />
Therefore, by designing the IM with a certain plenum volume and runner<br />
size, you can control at what rpm the engine will achieve peak torque and more importantly, you will have more power gain at that peak torque rpm from acoustic supercharging. <br />
<br />
Here's a nice summary of resonance tuning using ram theory for an IM :<br />
<br />
<br />
Quote:<br />
Originally posted by Jim McFarland<br />
<br />
Every physical system has one or more "natural vibration" frequencies that are characteristic of that system . <br />
<br />
An organ pipe is a common example of how a resonant condition is displayed. Based upon the physical dimensions of an organ pipe, a flow of inlet air may produce a resonant tone or pitch.<br />
<br />
Changing the pipe's dimension, given the same amount of input air, could produce another resonant point or tone. <br />
<br />
With regard to an engine's intake {or exhaust} system, it is possible to dimension a passage to accommodate specific cylinder displacements and engine speed so that a "resonant" condition helps produce an increase in total air flow {intake or exhaust}. In it's simplest form, this amounts to "tuning" an inlet {or exhaust} passage. Physical dimensions of the passage are constructed to provide a resonant tuning point {particularly relative to rpm and valve timing} at which a "boost" in flow is produced. This results in an increase in cylinder filling {volumetric efficiency} and potential gains in torque.<br />
<br />
<br />
DigsbyIM, Email, and Social Networks in one easy to use application!http://digsby.com<br />
<br />
DigsbyIM, Email, and Social Networks in one easy to use application!http://digsby.com<br />
<br />
Notice that with invididual throttle bodies (ITB's) you lose this resonance effect because the reflected wave escapes out into the engine bay (or the atmosphere) and is not stored and returned by a plenum/acoustic chamber. ITB's do NOT use ram theory to get that extra kick at peak torque because they usually in race form do not ha a plenum. In some street ITB's, a plenum is attached for practical reasons (sound deadening and filtering). They rely on very very large amounts of passive cylinder filling based on the piston's effects and use tuned air horn height and tapered diameter (with an S-shaped velocity stack opening) to get the N/A pressure boost effect<br />
<br />
<br />
Jun IM Cutaway showing the velocity stack opening for the runner inside the plenum.<br />
<br />
DigsbyIM, Email, and Social Networks in one easy to use application!http://digsby.com<br />
<br />
<br />
II. CALCULATIONS<br />
<br />
How do we calculate and design the IM dimensions so that the stacked columns of air waves arrive at a certain rpm ? <br />
<br />
There are 2 ways to calculate the dimensions for an IM. Using: <br />
<br />
<br />
1. Variable length runners formulas<br />
<br />
or <br />
<br />
2. A Helmholtz resonator method<br />
<br />
<br />
II A.) Variable Length Runners Formulas<br />
<br />
From the header tech article you have learned that longer tubes create peak torque at an earlier rpm. This is true whether you are lo at air flow in terms of a fluid or in terms of a sound wave.<br />
<br />
<br />
Quote:<br />
from <a href="http://info.connect.com.au/staff.con.../msg00764.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://info.connect.com.au/staff.con.../msg00764.html</a><br />
<br />
By choosing the length and diameter of the runners, an intake manifold can be "tuned" for optimum performance at a certain RPM range. <br />
<br />
Longer, narrower runners favor lower RPM's because they have a lower resonant frequency, and the smaller diameter helps increase the air velocity. <br />
<br />
Shorter, wider runners favor higher RPM's because they have a higher resonant frequency, and the larger diameter is less restrictive to air flow.<br />
<br />
...Choosing the right length and diameter of the intake runners is a trade off between high and low RPM performance. <br />
<br />
[Moderator's Note: we can use 2 sets of runners with different lengths in one IM in order to have 2 different peak torques and overcome this tradeoff. However, the penalty for using 2 sets of runners is an increase in surface area which diminishes flow quality at higher rpm and therefore limit upper rpm power (eg. Integra GSR's 2 stage IM with dual variable length runners ). The problem of added area is neatly solved in the new 4th generation Integra RSX Type S 2 stage IM by using a roller valve. ]<br />
<br />
<br />
1. / One Formula: David Vizard's Rule for IM Runner Length<br />
<br />
The general rule is that you should begin with a runner length of 17.8 cm for a 10,000 rpm peak torque location, from the intake opening to the plenum chamber. You add 4.3 cm to the runner length for every 1000 rpm that you want the peak torque to occur before the 10,000 rpm. <br />
<br />
So, for instance, if peak torque should occur at 4,000 rpm the total runner length should be 17.8 cm + (6 x 4.3 cm) = 43.6 cm.<br />
<br />
Vizard also suggests that you can calculate the ideal runner diameter by the equation :<br />
<br />
SQRT [ (target rpm for peak torque x Displacement x VE)/ 3330 ] <br />
<br />
SQRT = square root<br />
<br />
VE = Volumetric Efficiency in %<br />
<br />
Displacement in Liters<br />
<br />
<br />
eg.<br />
<br />
So if we want peak torque at 5800 rpm at 95% VE in a teg, VE = 0.95<br />
<br />
<br />
SQRT [ (5800x 1.8 L x 0.95)/3330] <br />
<br />
= 1.73 in. or 43.8 mm (1,73 x 25.4 mm/in.) is the ideal runner diameter.<br />
<br />
<br />
2./ Another Formula to Calculate Runner Length for a Specific Peak Torque RPM: from Steve Magnante at Hot Rod magazine <br />
<br />
<br />
N x L = 84,000 <br />
<br />
where N represents the desired engine rpm for peak torque and L is the length in inches from the opening of the runner tube to the valve head. <br />
<br />
3./ Website Calculator<br />
<br />
Or you can forget the formulas and just plug in the numbers and this calculator will crunch out the numbers for you:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html</a><br />
<br />
<br />
II B.) Helmholtz Resonator Calculations<br />
<br />
Remember at the start of the article I mentioned that the dimensions of 3 parts of an IM can affect where peak torque can occur? Well here is another way we can calculate estimates for our IM dimensions for the peak torque location we want. <br />
<br />
A Helmholtz resonator is an acoustic resonance chamber (as described by our plenum above) that modifies the acoustic frequency of a sound wave like a spring oscillating with a mass attached on the end.<br />
<br />
<br />
[img]http://www.team-integra.net/images]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
where f = the rpm at which you get peak torque ( the natural frequency of pressure oscillations in the acoustic chamber ) , c = the speed of sound (= 340 m/sec.) , S = runner area, L = runner length, V = displacement per cylinder<br />
<br />
A simplified version of this is using the Englemann formula for the above which also takes into account static CR of the engine:<br />
<br />
RPM for peak torque =<br />
<br />
642 x c x [ SQRT (S/[L x V] ) ] x [ SQRT { (CR-1)/ (CR+1) } ] <br />
<br />
<br />
= 218,280 x [ SQRT (S/[L x V] ) ] x [ SQRT { &copy;/ (CR+1) } ]<br />
<br />
<br />
For a more detailed explanation on the application of Hermann Ludwig Ferdinand von Helmholtz's acoustic resonator theory applied to intake systems, please check out:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://enaf1.tripod.com/teche.html#helm" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://enaf1.tripod.com/teche.html#helm</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.mecc.unipd.it/~cos/DINAMO...ore.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://www.mecc.unipd.it/~cos/DINAMO...ore.html</a>&lt;br /&gt;<br />
<br />
A Helmholtz resonator is used not only in an automotive induction sytem but also in the designing of exhausts to suppress sound and many other non-automotive designing that involves amplifying sound like in the music industry.<br />
<br />
III. RAM INTAKE TUBE DIMENSIONS<br />
<br />
What are the best intake tube dimensions for the IM that we have just designed for a particular peak torque rpm?<br />
<br />
<br />
III a./ INSIDE DIAMETER (D) of a RAM INTAKE TUBE <br />
<br />
<br />
[U]First Method[/]:<br />
<br />
<br />
D in inches = SQRT [ ( Displacement x VE x Redline) / (V x 18.5) ]<br />
<br />
Displacement = Total Displacement in Liters, VE = Volumetric Efficiency in %, V is the velocity of the air flow in the IM plenum for resonance (usually estimated at 180 ft/sec max.)<br />
<br />
<br />
eg. SQRT [ (1.8 x 85 x 8500) / (180 x 18.5) ]<br />
<br />
= SQRT [ (1,300,500)/ (3330) ]<br />
<br />
= SQRT (391)<br />
<br />
= 1.98 in.<br />
<br />
Second Method: <br />
<br />
Throttle Body Size is Determined by IM Plenum Size. <br />
<br />
DigsbyIM, Email, and Social Networks in one easy to use application!http://digsby.com<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Quote:<br />
from the Dave Thompson of Thompson Engineering and Endyn: <a href="http://www.theoldone.com/archive/int...old-design.htm" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://www.theoldone.com/archive/int...old-design.htm</a><br />
<br />
The plenum volume is critical on N/A engines, and a basic rule of thumb is: The smaller the plenum, the lower the rpm range, and bigger means higher rpm. The throttle body size and flow rate also affect the plenum size: Bigger TB, smaller plenum, small TB, larger plenum. <br />
The best way to find out if your TB is too small for your IM plenum is to determine what the intake manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor is reading (in the plenum) when you are at full throttle ( or wide open throttle (WOT) ) while the car is accel using a datalogger. The MAP should be equal to, or close to, atmospheric pressure. If it isn't or there is a MAP drop at WOT, then your TB is still too small.<br />
<br />
A 70mm (at the intake side or TB opening) to 65mm bore (at the plate side) ITR taper bore TB: More than enough for most big N/A Teg engines.<br />
<br />
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<br />
Once we have determined the optimal TB size for our IM, we can then determine the best intake inner diameter. <br />
<br />
The ideal diameter for an intake is when the intake has 25% more cross-sectional area than the TB's bore cross-sectional area . Your TB diameter (overbored or not) dictates your intake diameter.<br />
<br />
Remember that the area of a circle (your TB bore) is pi x radius squared and the diameter = 2 x radius. If you calculate your TB's area and then multiply it by 1.33, you will determine the intake's area. Then, use the area of the circle equation to determine the intake's radius.<br />
<br />
Therefore, for example, with a 64mm (plate side bore) TB, the calculated "best" intake diameter is 2.8 in. ID.<br />
<br />
III. b/ LENGTH OF RAM INTAKE TUBE<br />
<br />
A suggested starting point for the length of a tube with peak torque at 6000 rpm is 13 in. <br />
<br />
You add 1.7 in. for every 1000 rpm that you want to move the peak torque below 6000. <br />
<br />
Or subtract 1.7 in. for every 1000 rpm you want to move the peak torque above 6000.<br />
<br />
For more info on specific intakes (short rams versus CAI's etc.) please refer to my intake tech article over at hondavision.com :<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.automotivetech.org/forum/...5" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://www.automotivetech.org/forum/...5</a>&amp;pagenumber=1<br />
<br />
<br />
----------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
<br />
<br />
Please remember that formulas only serve as starting points. To get the actual best IM runner dimensions and intake dimensions for your particular engine package takes a cut and try approach to zero in on the best dimensions for you.<br />
<br />
For more info on Integra Specific IM designs (Single Stage versus Dual Stage) please check out my IM Tech Article over at hondavision.com :<br />
<br />
[img]http://www.team-integra.net/images/BAEC19]<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.automotivetech.org/forum/" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://www.automotivetech.org/forum/</a>...&amp;threadid=4673<br />
<br />
for those B18A/B and B18C1 owners looking for more top end and want to retro-fit an ITR IM onto their head, remember that the coolant &amp; oil passages and flange bolt holes don't align and you will need machine shop work to make them fit without coolant and vacuum leaks.<br />
<br />
Notice the flange holes and coolant passages (arrows) don't line up when you compare an ITR IM to a B18B IM:<br />
DigsbyIM, Email, and Social Networks in one easy to use application!http://digsby.com<br />
<br />
There's a nice article on retro-fitting an ITR IM on a B18B here:<br />
<br />
B18B IM (affectionately known as "the Giraffe" for it's long narrow tunnel ram runners: no wonder the B18B powerband is midrange oriented.)<br />
<br />
DigsbyIM, Email, and Social Networks in one easy to use application!http://digsby.com<br />
<a href="http://www.overboost.com/story.asp?id=85" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://www.overboost.com/story.asp?id=85</a>]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[K Series Intake Manifolds TEST]]></title>
			<link>https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-K-Series-Intake-Manifolds-TEST</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 21 May 2012 11:53:09 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://www.hondatalk.ro/member.php?action=profile&uid=168">kinky_boy</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-K-Series-Intake-Manifolds-TEST</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[toate modelele (sau cele mai uzuale) folosite pentru K20, ii mai vechi dar daca tot mi=am adus aminte de el sa fie si pe aci (linkul articolului original si cu poze si grafice dyno la final)<br />
<br />
K-Series Intake Manifold Shootout - Kapow!<br />
By Katman/ Photography by Katman <br />
Super Street, February, 2010 <br />
<br />
If you're an enthusiast like me, you too, are a member of a web forum(s) that relates to your car and/or engine swap that provides a rich source of technical information. For me, it's the K-series engine swap, and one forum I am a member of is K20A.org. This has to be the most popular, if not most technically filled, forum on the net for K-heads since this swap blew up in 2003. <br />
<br />
I'm also a fan of OEM Honda performance and parts. I like seeing what mixing and matching of the best OEM engine components will produce before having to go aftermarket. For the ones that know, K20s out of the box don't need much to make them fast - queue in the K-series intake manifolds! <br />
<br />
Back at the end of July, Skunk2 finally released their K-series intake manifold to the public. I had the pleasure of being one of the first people to get my hands on one for test fitment on my K20A Type-R engine. My friend and ex-coworker from AEM (Rob Green), helped with the install and also photographed our install. The following day, I created a post on K20A.org using Robert's photos and lots of interest was generated. So much interest in fact, that it sparked the idea to dyno compare the most widely-used OEM K-series intake manifolds on the market today. That being said, these are the seven K-series intake manifolds I was able to get my paws on and dyno compare. Thanks to a couple generous K20A.org members, I was able to borrow a few manifolds I did not have access to. Some completely stock, some modified. <br />
<br />
In addition to the shootout, I thought it would be proper to test out different sized throttle-bodies. But as it turned out, not every manifold was match-ported to 70mm. I had my stock 62mm Type-R t/b ported by Maxbore, which became 64mm tapering out to 70mm - similar to a K-series Spoon ported throttle-body. Blox Racing donated one of their new billet 70mm t/b for the shootout. Rob luckily had a ported Accord t/b which was originally 60mm, but was Maxbored to 62mm tapering out to 64mm (not shown). The Accord t/b was used on manifolds that were not match-ported to anything larger than 62mm - this included the BPR RBC and Endyne ported RBB manifolds, and were a direct bolt-on affair, no need for a throttle-body adapter plate! Excluding the stock RBC, all other manifolds were opened up to 70mm. <br />
<br />
The shootout was performed on my own K20-R-powered '92 EG Civic at Erick's Racing Engines (ERE) in Baldwin Park, California. Internally, my engine is stock, meaning no aftermarket cams, valvetrain, pistons or headgasket - all stock Type-R internals. The mods my K20-R does have are the following: Acura RDX 410cc injectors, KPRO ECU, Rcrew 4-1 header, custom 3" exhaust with mandrel piping, AEM hybrid CAI and thermal intake gasket. With K20A-R to K20A2 (US Type-S), the only big differences are the slightly higher compression pistons (11.5 vs.11.0) and better camshaft profiles. I think this is a good base to start with and reference, especially for those K-swappers who want to leave their engine internals mostly stock. <br />
<br />
<br />
MANIFOLD PREP<br />
<br />
 <br />
Before even heading over to ERE, I made sure all manifolds fit without issue. Some did have fitment issues and needed light modifications while others fit just fine, but then my DC5 (RSX) radiator's upper water neck and hose created clearance problems with the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). <br />
Before even heading over to ERE, I made sure all manifolds fit without issue. Some did hav <br />
I wound up buying a fullsize aluminum race radiator and had it modified at Harman/A.Q. Motorsports. A.Q. moved the upper waterneck to a respectable new location which freed up the TPS clearance issue. Most K-swappers run a Civic half-sized radiator and will not run into this clearance problem. I wanted maximum cooling, hence the reason for going fullsize. <br />
I wound up buying a fullsize aluminum race radiator and had it modified at Harman/A.Q. Mot <br />
Then there was the upper idler pulley/oil pump assembly that needed to be shaved down some. The RAA/RBB #4 runner makes contact with upper assembly making the manifold somewhat difficult to install, hence the reason for the shaving job. <br />
Then there was the upper idler pulley/oil pump assembly that needed to be shaved down some<br />
 <br />
The RBB and RAA manifolds needed the most modifications. Both needed a section of center webbing removed in order to feed the injector wire harness through to reach the injectors. <br />
The RBB and RAA manifolds needed the most modifications. Both needed a section of center w <br />
The RRC manifold needed to have an IACV port created so the IACV could work.<br />
Luckily the modification was already performed by the owner who lent it to me. All manifolds excluding the "PRC" needed the waternecks lopped off because most of the K20A engines have a waterneck that is separate from the intake manifold.<br />
With that taken care of, I was ready to start the shootout at ERE. The dyno testing took place on three separate days or sessions. In Session 1 we dynoed the PRC and Endyne ported RBB. Session 2 was the stock RBC and Skunk2 manifolds. Session 3 we tested the remaining BPR RBC, RAA and RRC manifolds.<br />
ERE uses a Dynapack dynamometer that is calibrated for wheel horsepower. As a disclaimer, I would like to mention that all dyno tuners have their own preferences, calibration settings and so on with their own dyno configurations. The results I make may differ from your results.<br />
 <br />
The RRC manifold needed to have an IACV port created so the IACV could work. Luckily the<br />
Katman Says: Not only did Erick reach 228whp but he managed to reach the 150+ torque range, touching on the RBB's torque output! RRC hype understood. <br />
<br />
As you can see with these results, for an internally stock K20A Type-R engine, the tuned RRC wins hands down. It makes the best top end power and even gets into the 150 torque marker. On the other hand, the Endyne ported RBB makes some serious mid range torque gains over all of the manifolds. Comparing both powerbands you can see where the RRC and RBB manifolds shine the most. Skunk2's manifold held its own against the RRC. BluePrint's RBC didn't do too bad either for being on a stock, smaller liter K-engine. <br />
<br />
Erick Says: The RRC is good for a stock to mildly-built engine. The powerband peaks 1500rpm earlier than Skunk2 manifold. The Skunk2 is good for a stock to mildly-built engine as well, but because the powerband peaks later, it will prevail on a built engine. <br />
<br />
With these final results, on top of having a skilled dyno tuner, cam angle seems plays the biggest role in tuning the K-series engine. <br />
<br />
<br />
1. STOCK PRC BASELINE 214HP 144TQ<br />
<br />
The "PRC" manifold is found on the JDM K20A Type-R engines. The U.S. equivalent or "PRB" is found on the '02-06 RSX Type-S (K20A2/Z1) and '02-05 Civic Si (K20A3), with slight differences in runner design. I've been using this manifold since day one of my K-swap, so about five years now. The baseline run was rather disappointing, as I've been driving on an un-tuned KPRO startup calibration for quite some time. I had VTEC set to 5300rpm and redline at 8800rpm. Power to the wheel as my current engine setup stands (with the 64mm throttle-body) was 193whp/136tq.<br />
<br />
<br />
 <br />
Just terrible! Erick went to work, adjusting air/fuel ratio keeping it as close as he could to 14.5, changing cam angle ever so lightly, and adjusting ignition timing. Five dyno runs later, the best he could tune the PRC was a nice 214whp/144tq. <br />
Just terrible! Erick went to work, adjusting air/fuel ratio keeping it as close as he coul <br />
The final tune from 0-5400rpm was leaned out, 5500-8000rpm fuel was richened up, and VTC was retarded about four degrees in the mid-range, and VTEC crossover was lowered to 4000rpm. Dropping the VTEC crossover point helped a lot.<br />
Next, was trying the 70mm Blox throttle-body. The engine had time to cool off during this time, as it was a hot day, close to 94 degrees ambient. Once on, the first couple of runs showed signs of running rich, probably because the engine was semi-cold. Once warmed up there weren't any significant gains and approximately 1-3hp was lost throughout the whole powerband. Erick performed some more tuning with the Blox t/b but was unable to surpass the power made with the 64mm t/b, though, the power made was very close to what the 64mm t/b produced. <br />
The final tune from 0-5400rpm was leaned out, 5500-8000rpm fuel was richened up, and VTC w<br />
<br />
2. ENDYNE PORTED RBB -.2HP +11TQ<br />
The "RBB" is a two-piece intake manifold that comes from the '04-08 TSX. This one is owned by a k20a.org member who had it ported by Endyne with a special "K20" specific port job. Endyne cut open the plenum to fully gut this beast out and then welded the plenum back together.<br />
<br />
 <br />
Erick reached the same wheel horsepower as the PRC, yet gained 10lb-ft of torque with this manifold! The torque increase is just amazing when comparing graphs against the PRC. You can thank the RBB's long runner design for the increase in torque. <br />
Erick reached the same wheel horsepower as the PRC, yet gained 10lb-ft of torque with this<br />
<br />
3. STOCK RBC +5HP +.6TQ<br />
<br />
The "RBC" manifold is currently the most widely-used K-manifold to upgrade to for the K20 and K24 engines. It especially shines on the K24 Frankenstein swaps (K20 head/K24 block). Its design has short runners and a large plenum, great for top-end power. In comparison to the PRC, the RBC drops about 5hp in areas of the low end and mid-range, but has better top-end power after 7200rpm to redline. Final results made 219whp/144.6lb-ft torque.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
4. SKUNK2 PRO K-SERIES +10.4HP +2.4TQ<br />
<br />
Behold the long awaited Skunk2 Pro K-series intake manifold. Still fairly new on the market, I was able to borrow this manifold from a fellow K20A.org member (pb16b aka Jason at Suja 1 Motoring). Now this manifold was dynoed by a couple other K20A.org members who didn't have pleasing results. This did not discourage me. <br />
<br />
 <br />
If my engine weren't limited to 9000rpm, this manifold would make even more power as the curve keeps climbing. In comparison to the RBC manifold there's a fat gain of mid-range at 4500-5700rpm, then power tapers off matching RBC's power at about 5800-6100rpm, then Skunk2's power gradually takes off all the way up to redline. <br />
If my engine weren't limited to 9000rpm, this manifold would make even more power as the c<br />
<br />
5. BLUEPRINT RBC +5.3HP +1.3TQ<br />
BluePrint Racing is one of the highest regarded K-series engine building shops known. They offer services such as their popular "BluePrint intake manifold" which is a thorough port job on the RBC intake manifold. Their port job is geared towards the big boy K24A engine builds. The BPR port job requires the cutting and opening of the RBC plenum so the runners can be accessed more easily. Porting is performed and once done, the cut plenum piece is welded back into place.<br />
<br />
 <br />
We compared the BPR graph to the stock RBC and there were significant low to mid-range power gains made over the RBC, yet top-end was only slightly better. If my K20R were cammed I'm sure the BPR manifold would respond even better. <br />
We compared the BPR graph to the stock RBC and there were significant low to mid-range pow<br />
<br />
6. RAA MANIFOLD -10.5HP +7.4TQ<br />
<br />
The 2-piece "RAA" intake manifold is found on the '02+ CRV, '03+ (4cyl) Honda Accord and '03+ Element. It is very similar to the RBB TSX manifold design, but has a smaller plenum and a 60mm throttle-body hole in comparison. A lot of Accord/CRV/Element owners upgrade to the RBB manifold because of the larger plenum, which shows some healthy torque gains. Curiosity made me want to see what kind of power this piece would produce on a K20A engine. This RAA was left completely stock except for the throttle-body hole, which was opened up to 70mm. <br />
<br />
 <br />
At the end, the final tuned calibration was close to what the RBB was set to in terms of fuel, ignition and cam angle. The RAA makes decent torque as it stands, but lacks in the horsepower department. Perhaps an Endyne port job could bring the RAA horsepower up to a feasible level! <br />
At the end, the final tuned calibration was close to what the RBB was set to in terms of f<br />
<br />
7. RRC MANIFOLD +14.5HP +8.6TQ<br />
<br />
The "RRC" manifold is found on the JDM '06+ Civic Type-R (FD2) K20A engine. Physically, the RRC looks almost identical to that of the RBC but has some significant differences upon closer inspection. On top of costing almost double what the RBC is, the runners are wider and a bit longer and the plenum seems to have more of an oval shape (internally) versus a rounder shape. There is a lot of hype surrounding this manifold on the forums and I wasn't sure why. I gratefully thank K20A.org member 6spd_EK (Greg) for lending me his RRC for this test as I had no other access to one. As mentioned earlier, there is no IACV port on this manifold, so one had to be created for the IACV to work. Luckily Greg already had this pre-done for me!<br />
<br />
Once installed with 64mm throttle-body and using the tuned Skunk2 calibration, baseline run produced 214.3whp/144.81tq. Erick worked his magic and reworked fuel/ignition timing/and cam angle and power gradually increased up to 223.9whp/148.9tq.<br />
<br />
This was the best he could tune with the 64mm t/b. We moved onto the 70mm t/b and power was almost identical to the 64mm t/b except top-end power falls earlier right around 8500rpm. Erick played with fuel and cam angle some more and hit 226whp/150tq while fixing top end loss! He felt he could get a little more cowbell from this manifold and in the final pull was able to hit 228.5whp/152.6tq -- just amazing!<br />
<br />
Not only did Erick reach 228whp but he managed to reach the 150+ torque range, touching on the RBB's torque output! RRC hype understood. <br />
<br />
<br />
SOURCES: <br />
<br />
<br />
Erick's Racing Engines - <a href="http://www.ericksracing.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">www.ericksracing.com</a><br />
K20A.org &amp; K20A.org members - 6SPD_EK (greg),PB16B (Suja1) &amp; KON - <a href="http://www.k20a.org" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">www.k20a.org</a><br />
Robert Green Ben@BluePrint Racing - <a href="http://www.blueprintracing.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">www.blueprintracing.com</a><br />
Blox Racing - <a href="http://www.bloxracing.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">www.bloxracing.com</a><br />
Karcepts - <a href="http://www.karcepts.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">www.karcepts.com</a><br />
A/Q Motorsports &amp; Ryan Novak<br />
Endyne Energy Dynamics - <a href="http://www.theoldone.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">www.theoldone.com</a><br />
JHPUSA - <a href="http://www.jhpusa.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">www.jhpusa.com</a><br />
K20Mart - <a href="http://www.k20mart.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">www.k20mart.com</a><br />
Skunk2 - <a href="http://www.skunk2.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">www.skunk2.com</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Read more: <a href="http://www.superstreetonline.com/techarticles/sstp_1002_k_series_intake_manifold_shootout/viewall.html#ixzz1vVKLZSur" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://www.superstreetonline.com/techart...z1vVKLZSur</a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[toate modelele (sau cele mai uzuale) folosite pentru K20, ii mai vechi dar daca tot mi=am adus aminte de el sa fie si pe aci (linkul articolului original si cu poze si grafice dyno la final)<br />
<br />
K-Series Intake Manifold Shootout - Kapow!<br />
By Katman/ Photography by Katman <br />
Super Street, February, 2010 <br />
<br />
If you're an enthusiast like me, you too, are a member of a web forum(s) that relates to your car and/or engine swap that provides a rich source of technical information. For me, it's the K-series engine swap, and one forum I am a member of is K20A.org. This has to be the most popular, if not most technically filled, forum on the net for K-heads since this swap blew up in 2003. <br />
<br />
I'm also a fan of OEM Honda performance and parts. I like seeing what mixing and matching of the best OEM engine components will produce before having to go aftermarket. For the ones that know, K20s out of the box don't need much to make them fast - queue in the K-series intake manifolds! <br />
<br />
Back at the end of July, Skunk2 finally released their K-series intake manifold to the public. I had the pleasure of being one of the first people to get my hands on one for test fitment on my K20A Type-R engine. My friend and ex-coworker from AEM (Rob Green), helped with the install and also photographed our install. The following day, I created a post on K20A.org using Robert's photos and lots of interest was generated. So much interest in fact, that it sparked the idea to dyno compare the most widely-used OEM K-series intake manifolds on the market today. That being said, these are the seven K-series intake manifolds I was able to get my paws on and dyno compare. Thanks to a couple generous K20A.org members, I was able to borrow a few manifolds I did not have access to. Some completely stock, some modified. <br />
<br />
In addition to the shootout, I thought it would be proper to test out different sized throttle-bodies. But as it turned out, not every manifold was match-ported to 70mm. I had my stock 62mm Type-R t/b ported by Maxbore, which became 64mm tapering out to 70mm - similar to a K-series Spoon ported throttle-body. Blox Racing donated one of their new billet 70mm t/b for the shootout. Rob luckily had a ported Accord t/b which was originally 60mm, but was Maxbored to 62mm tapering out to 64mm (not shown). The Accord t/b was used on manifolds that were not match-ported to anything larger than 62mm - this included the BPR RBC and Endyne ported RBB manifolds, and were a direct bolt-on affair, no need for a throttle-body adapter plate! Excluding the stock RBC, all other manifolds were opened up to 70mm. <br />
<br />
The shootout was performed on my own K20-R-powered '92 EG Civic at Erick's Racing Engines (ERE) in Baldwin Park, California. Internally, my engine is stock, meaning no aftermarket cams, valvetrain, pistons or headgasket - all stock Type-R internals. The mods my K20-R does have are the following: Acura RDX 410cc injectors, KPRO ECU, Rcrew 4-1 header, custom 3" exhaust with mandrel piping, AEM hybrid CAI and thermal intake gasket. With K20A-R to K20A2 (US Type-S), the only big differences are the slightly higher compression pistons (11.5 vs.11.0) and better camshaft profiles. I think this is a good base to start with and reference, especially for those K-swappers who want to leave their engine internals mostly stock. <br />
<br />
<br />
MANIFOLD PREP<br />
<br />
 <br />
Before even heading over to ERE, I made sure all manifolds fit without issue. Some did have fitment issues and needed light modifications while others fit just fine, but then my DC5 (RSX) radiator's upper water neck and hose created clearance problems with the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). <br />
Before even heading over to ERE, I made sure all manifolds fit without issue. Some did hav <br />
I wound up buying a fullsize aluminum race radiator and had it modified at Harman/A.Q. Motorsports. A.Q. moved the upper waterneck to a respectable new location which freed up the TPS clearance issue. Most K-swappers run a Civic half-sized radiator and will not run into this clearance problem. I wanted maximum cooling, hence the reason for going fullsize. <br />
I wound up buying a fullsize aluminum race radiator and had it modified at Harman/A.Q. Mot <br />
Then there was the upper idler pulley/oil pump assembly that needed to be shaved down some. The RAA/RBB #4 runner makes contact with upper assembly making the manifold somewhat difficult to install, hence the reason for the shaving job. <br />
Then there was the upper idler pulley/oil pump assembly that needed to be shaved down some<br />
 <br />
The RBB and RAA manifolds needed the most modifications. Both needed a section of center webbing removed in order to feed the injector wire harness through to reach the injectors. <br />
The RBB and RAA manifolds needed the most modifications. Both needed a section of center w <br />
The RRC manifold needed to have an IACV port created so the IACV could work.<br />
Luckily the modification was already performed by the owner who lent it to me. All manifolds excluding the "PRC" needed the waternecks lopped off because most of the K20A engines have a waterneck that is separate from the intake manifold.<br />
With that taken care of, I was ready to start the shootout at ERE. The dyno testing took place on three separate days or sessions. In Session 1 we dynoed the PRC and Endyne ported RBB. Session 2 was the stock RBC and Skunk2 manifolds. Session 3 we tested the remaining BPR RBC, RAA and RRC manifolds.<br />
ERE uses a Dynapack dynamometer that is calibrated for wheel horsepower. As a disclaimer, I would like to mention that all dyno tuners have their own preferences, calibration settings and so on with their own dyno configurations. The results I make may differ from your results.<br />
 <br />
The RRC manifold needed to have an IACV port created so the IACV could work. Luckily the<br />
Katman Says: Not only did Erick reach 228whp but he managed to reach the 150+ torque range, touching on the RBB's torque output! RRC hype understood. <br />
<br />
As you can see with these results, for an internally stock K20A Type-R engine, the tuned RRC wins hands down. It makes the best top end power and even gets into the 150 torque marker. On the other hand, the Endyne ported RBB makes some serious mid range torque gains over all of the manifolds. Comparing both powerbands you can see where the RRC and RBB manifolds shine the most. Skunk2's manifold held its own against the RRC. BluePrint's RBC didn't do too bad either for being on a stock, smaller liter K-engine. <br />
<br />
Erick Says: The RRC is good for a stock to mildly-built engine. The powerband peaks 1500rpm earlier than Skunk2 manifold. The Skunk2 is good for a stock to mildly-built engine as well, but because the powerband peaks later, it will prevail on a built engine. <br />
<br />
With these final results, on top of having a skilled dyno tuner, cam angle seems plays the biggest role in tuning the K-series engine. <br />
<br />
<br />
1. STOCK PRC BASELINE 214HP 144TQ<br />
<br />
The "PRC" manifold is found on the JDM K20A Type-R engines. The U.S. equivalent or "PRB" is found on the '02-06 RSX Type-S (K20A2/Z1) and '02-05 Civic Si (K20A3), with slight differences in runner design. I've been using this manifold since day one of my K-swap, so about five years now. The baseline run was rather disappointing, as I've been driving on an un-tuned KPRO startup calibration for quite some time. I had VTEC set to 5300rpm and redline at 8800rpm. Power to the wheel as my current engine setup stands (with the 64mm throttle-body) was 193whp/136tq.<br />
<br />
<br />
 <br />
Just terrible! Erick went to work, adjusting air/fuel ratio keeping it as close as he could to 14.5, changing cam angle ever so lightly, and adjusting ignition timing. Five dyno runs later, the best he could tune the PRC was a nice 214whp/144tq. <br />
Just terrible! Erick went to work, adjusting air/fuel ratio keeping it as close as he coul <br />
The final tune from 0-5400rpm was leaned out, 5500-8000rpm fuel was richened up, and VTC was retarded about four degrees in the mid-range, and VTEC crossover was lowered to 4000rpm. Dropping the VTEC crossover point helped a lot.<br />
Next, was trying the 70mm Blox throttle-body. The engine had time to cool off during this time, as it was a hot day, close to 94 degrees ambient. Once on, the first couple of runs showed signs of running rich, probably because the engine was semi-cold. Once warmed up there weren't any significant gains and approximately 1-3hp was lost throughout the whole powerband. Erick performed some more tuning with the Blox t/b but was unable to surpass the power made with the 64mm t/b, though, the power made was very close to what the 64mm t/b produced. <br />
The final tune from 0-5400rpm was leaned out, 5500-8000rpm fuel was richened up, and VTC w<br />
<br />
2. ENDYNE PORTED RBB -.2HP +11TQ<br />
The "RBB" is a two-piece intake manifold that comes from the '04-08 TSX. This one is owned by a k20a.org member who had it ported by Endyne with a special "K20" specific port job. Endyne cut open the plenum to fully gut this beast out and then welded the plenum back together.<br />
<br />
 <br />
Erick reached the same wheel horsepower as the PRC, yet gained 10lb-ft of torque with this manifold! The torque increase is just amazing when comparing graphs against the PRC. You can thank the RBB's long runner design for the increase in torque. <br />
Erick reached the same wheel horsepower as the PRC, yet gained 10lb-ft of torque with this<br />
<br />
3. STOCK RBC +5HP +.6TQ<br />
<br />
The "RBC" manifold is currently the most widely-used K-manifold to upgrade to for the K20 and K24 engines. It especially shines on the K24 Frankenstein swaps (K20 head/K24 block). Its design has short runners and a large plenum, great for top-end power. In comparison to the PRC, the RBC drops about 5hp in areas of the low end and mid-range, but has better top-end power after 7200rpm to redline. Final results made 219whp/144.6lb-ft torque.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
4. SKUNK2 PRO K-SERIES +10.4HP +2.4TQ<br />
<br />
Behold the long awaited Skunk2 Pro K-series intake manifold. Still fairly new on the market, I was able to borrow this manifold from a fellow K20A.org member (pb16b aka Jason at Suja 1 Motoring). Now this manifold was dynoed by a couple other K20A.org members who didn't have pleasing results. This did not discourage me. <br />
<br />
 <br />
If my engine weren't limited to 9000rpm, this manifold would make even more power as the curve keeps climbing. In comparison to the RBC manifold there's a fat gain of mid-range at 4500-5700rpm, then power tapers off matching RBC's power at about 5800-6100rpm, then Skunk2's power gradually takes off all the way up to redline. <br />
If my engine weren't limited to 9000rpm, this manifold would make even more power as the c<br />
<br />
5. BLUEPRINT RBC +5.3HP +1.3TQ<br />
BluePrint Racing is one of the highest regarded K-series engine building shops known. They offer services such as their popular "BluePrint intake manifold" which is a thorough port job on the RBC intake manifold. Their port job is geared towards the big boy K24A engine builds. The BPR port job requires the cutting and opening of the RBC plenum so the runners can be accessed more easily. Porting is performed and once done, the cut plenum piece is welded back into place.<br />
<br />
 <br />
We compared the BPR graph to the stock RBC and there were significant low to mid-range power gains made over the RBC, yet top-end was only slightly better. If my K20R were cammed I'm sure the BPR manifold would respond even better. <br />
We compared the BPR graph to the stock RBC and there were significant low to mid-range pow<br />
<br />
6. RAA MANIFOLD -10.5HP +7.4TQ<br />
<br />
The 2-piece "RAA" intake manifold is found on the '02+ CRV, '03+ (4cyl) Honda Accord and '03+ Element. It is very similar to the RBB TSX manifold design, but has a smaller plenum and a 60mm throttle-body hole in comparison. A lot of Accord/CRV/Element owners upgrade to the RBB manifold because of the larger plenum, which shows some healthy torque gains. Curiosity made me want to see what kind of power this piece would produce on a K20A engine. This RAA was left completely stock except for the throttle-body hole, which was opened up to 70mm. <br />
<br />
 <br />
At the end, the final tuned calibration was close to what the RBB was set to in terms of fuel, ignition and cam angle. The RAA makes decent torque as it stands, but lacks in the horsepower department. Perhaps an Endyne port job could bring the RAA horsepower up to a feasible level! <br />
At the end, the final tuned calibration was close to what the RBB was set to in terms of f<br />
<br />
7. RRC MANIFOLD +14.5HP +8.6TQ<br />
<br />
The "RRC" manifold is found on the JDM '06+ Civic Type-R (FD2) K20A engine. Physically, the RRC looks almost identical to that of the RBC but has some significant differences upon closer inspection. On top of costing almost double what the RBC is, the runners are wider and a bit longer and the plenum seems to have more of an oval shape (internally) versus a rounder shape. There is a lot of hype surrounding this manifold on the forums and I wasn't sure why. I gratefully thank K20A.org member 6spd_EK (Greg) for lending me his RRC for this test as I had no other access to one. As mentioned earlier, there is no IACV port on this manifold, so one had to be created for the IACV to work. Luckily Greg already had this pre-done for me!<br />
<br />
Once installed with 64mm throttle-body and using the tuned Skunk2 calibration, baseline run produced 214.3whp/144.81tq. Erick worked his magic and reworked fuel/ignition timing/and cam angle and power gradually increased up to 223.9whp/148.9tq.<br />
<br />
This was the best he could tune with the 64mm t/b. We moved onto the 70mm t/b and power was almost identical to the 64mm t/b except top-end power falls earlier right around 8500rpm. Erick played with fuel and cam angle some more and hit 226whp/150tq while fixing top end loss! He felt he could get a little more cowbell from this manifold and in the final pull was able to hit 228.5whp/152.6tq -- just amazing!<br />
<br />
Not only did Erick reach 228whp but he managed to reach the 150+ torque range, touching on the RBB's torque output! RRC hype understood. <br />
<br />
<br />
SOURCES: <br />
<br />
<br />
Erick's Racing Engines - <a href="http://www.ericksracing.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">www.ericksracing.com</a><br />
K20A.org &amp; K20A.org members - 6SPD_EK (greg),PB16B (Suja1) &amp; KON - <a href="http://www.k20a.org" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">www.k20a.org</a><br />
Robert Green Ben@BluePrint Racing - <a href="http://www.blueprintracing.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">www.blueprintracing.com</a><br />
Blox Racing - <a href="http://www.bloxracing.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">www.bloxracing.com</a><br />
Karcepts - <a href="http://www.karcepts.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">www.karcepts.com</a><br />
A/Q Motorsports &amp; Ryan Novak<br />
Endyne Energy Dynamics - <a href="http://www.theoldone.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">www.theoldone.com</a><br />
JHPUSA - <a href="http://www.jhpusa.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">www.jhpusa.com</a><br />
K20Mart - <a href="http://www.k20mart.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">www.k20mart.com</a><br />
Skunk2 - <a href="http://www.skunk2.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">www.skunk2.com</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Read more: <a href="http://www.superstreetonline.com/techarticles/sstp_1002_k_series_intake_manifold_shootout/viewall.html#ixzz1vVKLZSur" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://www.superstreetonline.com/techart...z1vVKLZSur</a>]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[TODA K20 Inlet Mainfold :)]]></title>
			<link>https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-TODA-K20-Inlet-Mainfold</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 15 Nov 2011 13:33:02 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://www.hondatalk.ro/member.php?action=profile&uid=168">kinky_boy</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-TODA-K20-Inlet-Mainfold</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[o admisie simpatica cu ITB <img src="https://www.hondatalk.ro/images/smilies/icon_twisted.gif" alt="Icon_twisted" title="Icon_twisted" class="smilie smilie_73" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/5213/photo4fe.jpg" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: photo4fe.jpg]" class="mycode_img" /><br />
<img src="http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/6230/photo5sv.jpg" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: photo5sv.jpg]" class="mycode_img" /><br />
<img src="http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/793/photo3ert.jpg" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: photo3ert.jpg]" class="mycode_img" /><br />
<img src="http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/4659/photo2oebh.jpg" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: photo2oebh.jpg]" class="mycode_img" /><br />
<img src="http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/3426/photo1ecq.jpg" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: photo1ecq.jpg]" class="mycode_img" /><br />
<br />
With the long trumpets and a 2.1 motor we have it made 290bhp and 210ftlb! <img src="https://www.hondatalk.ro/images/smilies/icon_twisted.gif" alt="Icon_twisted" title="Icon_twisted" class="smilie smilie_73" /><br />
Torque curve is like a supercharged car. I mapped it TPS and it drives fine. Bit lumpy like but sound is insane!<br />
<br />
To fit that airbox you also need the shorter 33mm trumpets so torque is going to drop a bit. Hopefully have it back on the dyno very shortly.<br />
<br />
Prices are here but if you need to ask you can't afford them! <img src="https://www.hondatalk.ro/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif" alt="Icon_wink" title="Icon_wink" class="smilie smilie_48" /><br />
<a href="http://www.tdi-plc.com/catalog/inductio" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://www.tdi-plc.com/catalog/inductio</a> ... 8_140.html<br />
<br />
]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[o admisie simpatica cu ITB <img src="https://www.hondatalk.ro/images/smilies/icon_twisted.gif" alt="Icon_twisted" title="Icon_twisted" class="smilie smilie_73" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/5213/photo4fe.jpg" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: photo4fe.jpg]" class="mycode_img" /><br />
<img src="http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/6230/photo5sv.jpg" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: photo5sv.jpg]" class="mycode_img" /><br />
<img src="http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/793/photo3ert.jpg" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: photo3ert.jpg]" class="mycode_img" /><br />
<img src="http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/4659/photo2oebh.jpg" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: photo2oebh.jpg]" class="mycode_img" /><br />
<img src="http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/3426/photo1ecq.jpg" loading="lazy"  alt="[Image: photo1ecq.jpg]" class="mycode_img" /><br />
<br />
With the long trumpets and a 2.1 motor we have it made 290bhp and 210ftlb! <img src="https://www.hondatalk.ro/images/smilies/icon_twisted.gif" alt="Icon_twisted" title="Icon_twisted" class="smilie smilie_73" /><br />
Torque curve is like a supercharged car. I mapped it TPS and it drives fine. Bit lumpy like but sound is insane!<br />
<br />
To fit that airbox you also need the shorter 33mm trumpets so torque is going to drop a bit. Hopefully have it back on the dyno very shortly.<br />
<br />
Prices are here but if you need to ask you can't afford them! <img src="https://www.hondatalk.ro/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif" alt="Icon_wink" title="Icon_wink" class="smilie smilie_48" /><br />
<a href="http://www.tdi-plc.com/catalog/inductio" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://www.tdi-plc.com/catalog/inductio</a> ... 8_140.html<br />
<br />
]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Posibile probleme de AFR la eliminare catalizator]]></title>
			<link>https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-Posibile-probleme-de-AFR-la-eliminare-catalizator</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 14 Oct 2011 20:39:09 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://www.hondatalk.ro/member.php?action=profile&uid=168">kinky_boy</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-Posibile-probleme-de-AFR-la-eliminare-catalizator</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[salutare,<br />
<br />
ieri am reusit sa urc si eu headeru 4-2-1 pe masina si am pus ambele sonde pe el, Lambda si cea de O2. Acum, cei de la service mi-au zis ca atata timp cat sondele sunt sus totul este ok (sunt multi care si-au schimbat galeria si totul e ok), altcineva mi-a zis ca e foarte bine ca am pus si O2-ul si ca totul e ok asa, alta persoana ca nu trebuia sa pun headeru daca nu am anulat O2 ca o sa-mi se aprinda becul si o sa consume mai mult(deci prea bogat). Pe forum prin UK umbla vorba ca ar merge prea sarac etc.<br />
Cum e bine sa intrebi in mai multe locuri va intreb si pe voi, e ok in situatia de fata sa merg asa pana o sa apuc sa-mi fac si harta pentru Hondata? <br />
<br />
Eu stiu ceva lume tot cu ep3 si nu numai, care si-au schimbat galeriile si au mers fara harti modificate fara probleme. Nu as vrea sa am vreo surpriza la motor apoi pentru ca amestecul e prea sarac sau prea bogat.<br />
<br />
<br />
Mersi<br />
<br />
P.S. si daca stiti pe unde as putea sa gasesc la noi o garnitura (nu am reusit sa comand niciunde) pentru catback invidia teava de 2.5". Liviu parca tu ziceai in alt post ca ai putea face rost. Momentan la service am pus o improvizatie de vreo 5 garnituri ca era prea subtire foaia de ceva gen azbest (klingerit parca) si dat cu niste mastic de temp inalta.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[salutare,<br />
<br />
ieri am reusit sa urc si eu headeru 4-2-1 pe masina si am pus ambele sonde pe el, Lambda si cea de O2. Acum, cei de la service mi-au zis ca atata timp cat sondele sunt sus totul este ok (sunt multi care si-au schimbat galeria si totul e ok), altcineva mi-a zis ca e foarte bine ca am pus si O2-ul si ca totul e ok asa, alta persoana ca nu trebuia sa pun headeru daca nu am anulat O2 ca o sa-mi se aprinda becul si o sa consume mai mult(deci prea bogat). Pe forum prin UK umbla vorba ca ar merge prea sarac etc.<br />
Cum e bine sa intrebi in mai multe locuri va intreb si pe voi, e ok in situatia de fata sa merg asa pana o sa apuc sa-mi fac si harta pentru Hondata? <br />
<br />
Eu stiu ceva lume tot cu ep3 si nu numai, care si-au schimbat galeriile si au mers fara harti modificate fara probleme. Nu as vrea sa am vreo surpriza la motor apoi pentru ca amestecul e prea sarac sau prea bogat.<br />
<br />
<br />
Mersi<br />
<br />
P.S. si daca stiti pe unde as putea sa gasesc la noi o garnitura (nu am reusit sa comand niciunde) pentru catback invidia teava de 2.5". Liviu parca tu ziceai in alt post ca ai putea face rost. Momentan la service am pus o improvizatie de vreo 5 garnituri ca era prea subtire foaia de ceva gen azbest (klingerit parca) si dat cu niste mastic de temp inalta.]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Protectie galerie evacuare]]></title>
			<link>https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-Protectie-galerie-evacuare</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 22 Feb 2011 18:31:23 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://www.hondatalk.ro/member.php?action=profile&uid=17">Vali_Lj</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-Protectie-galerie-evacuare</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Daca tot se vorbeste despre puterea data de catre galerii si intreg sistemul de evacuare aduc si un mic ajutor celor care au patit sa mutileze galeria ( inclusiv eu) dar si celor care sunt mai norocosi. Majoritatea hondelor nu au "scut de protectie" ci doar o bucata de plastic care protejeaza foarte putin impotriva loviturilor , el este mai mult pus ca un scut pentru protejarea compartimentului motor impotriva mizerie,apei etc.nicidecum impotriva loviturilor mecanice.<br />
<br />
Mai jos aveti protectia pentru galerii in special pentru seria B si sistemul 4-1 ( ITR) el fiind cel mai expus dar se poate adapta si pentru celelate sisteme.<br />
<br />
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<img src="https://www.hondatalk.ro/images/attachtypes/image.gif" title="JPG Image" border="0" alt=".jpg" />
<!-- end: attachment_icon -->&nbsp;&nbsp;<a class="attachembed" href="attachment.php?aid=617" target="_blank" title="">twincamtech_2140_17856066.jpg</a> (Size: 214.8 KB / Downloads: 115)
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			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Daca tot se vorbeste despre puterea data de catre galerii si intreg sistemul de evacuare aduc si un mic ajutor celor care au patit sa mutileze galeria ( inclusiv eu) dar si celor care sunt mai norocosi. Majoritatea hondelor nu au "scut de protectie" ci doar o bucata de plastic care protejeaza foarte putin impotriva loviturilor , el este mai mult pus ca un scut pentru protejarea compartimentului motor impotriva mizerie,apei etc.nicidecum impotriva loviturilor mecanice.<br />
<br />
Mai jos aveti protectia pentru galerii in special pentru seria B si sistemul 4-1 ( ITR) el fiind cel mai expus dar se poate adapta si pentru celelate sisteme.<br />
<br />
<br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
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<img src="https://www.hondatalk.ro/images/attachtypes/image.gif" title="JPG Image" border="0" alt=".jpg" />
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<img src="https://www.hondatalk.ro/images/attachtypes/image.gif" title="JPG Image" border="0" alt=".jpg" />
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<img src="https://www.hondatalk.ro/images/attachtypes/image.gif" title="JPG Image" border="0" alt=".jpg" />
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			<title><![CDATA[Galerie de evacuare - Toda,CPL,TDI,Circuit sports,etc]]></title>
			<link>https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-Galerie-de-evacuare-Toda-CPL-TDI-Circuit-sports-etc</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 03 Feb 2011 10:06:35 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://www.hondatalk.ro/member.php?action=profile&uid=43">aghhh</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-Galerie-de-evacuare-Toda-CPL-TDI-Circuit-sports-etc</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[M-am hotarat sa-mi achizitionez <span style="font-style: italic;" class="mycode_i">galeria de evacuare</span> pt fn2,doar ca nu sunt foarte hotarata pe care sa-i aleg..Toda e Toda...sunt foarte scumpi (1600e) nu stiu daca dai bani pe performanta sau pe firma mai mult..CPL am auzit lucruri ok/castiguri decente (pret o idee mai decent ca Toda 1100e),Circuit Sports abia au aparut..in iarna 2010 si sunt o copie a celor de la Invidia pt civic-ul SI...si par ok din poze..n-am vazut grafice de putere inca(700e)..Ar mai fi TDi care a scos pe dyno mai bine ca Toda..dar nu stiu preturi etc <img src="https://www.hondatalk.ro/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif" alt="Icon_biggrin" title="Icon_biggrin" class="smilie smilie_33" /> Spoon urmeaza sa-si scoata <span style="font-style: italic;" class="mycode_i">galeria de evacuare</span> la vanzare..momentan au scos catback-ul care e 1600lire..deci si <span style="font-style: italic;" class="mycode_i">galeria de evacuare</span> o sa sara cu mult! Mugen nici nu intra in discutie..2500lire..niste preturi aberante <img src="https://www.hondatalk.ro/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif" alt="Icon_smile" title="Icon_smile" class="smilie smilie_100" />)<br />
Astept si parerile voastre referitoare...<br />
<br />
v-am atasat si poze cu <span style="font-style: italic;" class="mycode_i">galeria de evacuare</span> de la circuit sports.<br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
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<img src="https://www.hondatalk.ro/images/attachtypes/image.gif" title="JPG Image" border="0" alt=".jpg" />
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<img src="https://www.hondatalk.ro/images/attachtypes/image.gif" title="JPG Image" border="0" alt=".jpg" />
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<img src="https://www.hondatalk.ro/images/attachtypes/image.gif" title="JPG Image" border="0" alt=".jpg" />
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			<content:encoded><![CDATA[M-am hotarat sa-mi achizitionez <span style="font-style: italic;" class="mycode_i">galeria de evacuare</span> pt fn2,doar ca nu sunt foarte hotarata pe care sa-i aleg..Toda e Toda...sunt foarte scumpi (1600e) nu stiu daca dai bani pe performanta sau pe firma mai mult..CPL am auzit lucruri ok/castiguri decente (pret o idee mai decent ca Toda 1100e),Circuit Sports abia au aparut..in iarna 2010 si sunt o copie a celor de la Invidia pt civic-ul SI...si par ok din poze..n-am vazut grafice de putere inca(700e)..Ar mai fi TDi care a scos pe dyno mai bine ca Toda..dar nu stiu preturi etc <img src="https://www.hondatalk.ro/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif" alt="Icon_biggrin" title="Icon_biggrin" class="smilie smilie_33" /> Spoon urmeaza sa-si scoata <span style="font-style: italic;" class="mycode_i">galeria de evacuare</span> la vanzare..momentan au scos catback-ul care e 1600lire..deci si <span style="font-style: italic;" class="mycode_i">galeria de evacuare</span> o sa sara cu mult! Mugen nici nu intra in discutie..2500lire..niste preturi aberante <img src="https://www.hondatalk.ro/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif" alt="Icon_smile" title="Icon_smile" class="smilie smilie_100" />)<br />
Astept si parerile voastre referitoare...<br />
<br />
v-am atasat si poze cu <span style="font-style: italic;" class="mycode_i">galeria de evacuare</span> de la circuit sports.<br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
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<img src="https://www.hondatalk.ro/images/attachtypes/image.gif" title="JPG Image" border="0" alt=".jpg" />
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			<title><![CDATA[Codurile de fabricant Jasma]]></title>
			<link>https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-Codurile-de-fabricant-Jasma</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 02 Jan 2011 23:24:10 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://www.hondatalk.ro/member.php?action=profile&uid=3">yulasinio</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-Codurile-de-fabricant-Jasma</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[<blockquote class="mycode_quote"><cite>Quote:</cite>"The JASMA (the Japanese automobile sport muffler association), the automobile exhaust which is based on the safety standards of road traffic method, and road haulage vehicle method, concerning the prevention of public nuisances and security of noise and thermal damage et cetera it is the group which is served in spread of industry the thing which the standard which proper quality as the sport muffler of association recognition is harsher, provides clarifies by."</blockquote>
<br />
Daca sti primele 3 cifre de la codul JASMA atunci poti afla producatorul din lista de mai jos, restul numerelor reprezentand modelul, tipul...<br />
<br />
Akiyure Inc. 047 <br />
Apekusera Inc. 048 <br />
Iida Inc. 130 <br />
Ikeda industry 003 <br />
A tea sea international Japan Inc. 074 <br />
Etching k s Inc. 051 <br />
Ebansupuranningu asuretsuku division 129 <br />
M-TEC Inc. 002 <br />
Otoekuze Inc. 120 <br />
Automatic backs seven Inc. 097 <br />
Ovuareshingupurodakutsu Inc. 124 <br />
Katsu Inc. 088 <br />
Car land 119 <br />
Kind technostructure Inc. 115 <br />
Kakimotoreshingu Inc. 017 <br />
Garcon division 114 <br />
Can tile office 113 <br />
5ZIGEN international Inc. 005 <br />
Sun automobile industry Inc. 076 <br />
Gee earl Inc. 012 <br />
Jieiruto Inc. 013 <br />
Gee piece Potts Inc. 125 <br />
Jiyaosu Inc. 067 <br />
Starting line Inc. 069 <br />
Spoon Inc. 044 <br />
Possession the Suruga Seiki Inc. 106 <br />
Zero sports Inc. 100 <br />
Tanabe Inc. 026 <br />
Taniguchi Inc. 035 <br />
Takeoff Inc. 004 <br />
Top line Inc. 110 <br />
Trust Inc. 006 <br />
Knight sport Inc. 019 <br />
Huaburesu Inc. 111 <br />
Fujita engineering Inc. 061 <br />
Rattan šâ engineering and research industry Inc. (Fujitsubo Giken Co. Ltd.) 001 <br />
Free way Inc. 123 <br />
Buritsutsu Inc. 021 <br />
Hoshinoinparu Inc. 037 <br />
HONDA twin cam Inc. 011 <br />
Mainzuueibu Inc. 038 <br />
Makishimuwakusu Inc. 045 <br />
Pine Shaw Inc. 008 <br />
Meiwa Inc. 041 <br />
Yajima industry Inc. 091 <br />
Yamato Inc. 122 <br />
Lucky automatic Inc. 126 <br />
Love lark Inc. 083<br />
]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote class="mycode_quote"><cite>Quote:</cite>"The JASMA (the Japanese automobile sport muffler association), the automobile exhaust which is based on the safety standards of road traffic method, and road haulage vehicle method, concerning the prevention of public nuisances and security of noise and thermal damage et cetera it is the group which is served in spread of industry the thing which the standard which proper quality as the sport muffler of association recognition is harsher, provides clarifies by."</blockquote>
<br />
Daca sti primele 3 cifre de la codul JASMA atunci poti afla producatorul din lista de mai jos, restul numerelor reprezentand modelul, tipul...<br />
<br />
Akiyure Inc. 047 <br />
Apekusera Inc. 048 <br />
Iida Inc. 130 <br />
Ikeda industry 003 <br />
A tea sea international Japan Inc. 074 <br />
Etching k s Inc. 051 <br />
Ebansupuranningu asuretsuku division 129 <br />
M-TEC Inc. 002 <br />
Otoekuze Inc. 120 <br />
Automatic backs seven Inc. 097 <br />
Ovuareshingupurodakutsu Inc. 124 <br />
Katsu Inc. 088 <br />
Car land 119 <br />
Kind technostructure Inc. 115 <br />
Kakimotoreshingu Inc. 017 <br />
Garcon division 114 <br />
Can tile office 113 <br />
5ZIGEN international Inc. 005 <br />
Sun automobile industry Inc. 076 <br />
Gee earl Inc. 012 <br />
Jieiruto Inc. 013 <br />
Gee piece Potts Inc. 125 <br />
Jiyaosu Inc. 067 <br />
Starting line Inc. 069 <br />
Spoon Inc. 044 <br />
Possession the Suruga Seiki Inc. 106 <br />
Zero sports Inc. 100 <br />
Tanabe Inc. 026 <br />
Taniguchi Inc. 035 <br />
Takeoff Inc. 004 <br />
Top line Inc. 110 <br />
Trust Inc. 006 <br />
Knight sport Inc. 019 <br />
Huaburesu Inc. 111 <br />
Fujita engineering Inc. 061 <br />
Rattan šâ engineering and research industry Inc. (Fujitsubo Giken Co. Ltd.) 001 <br />
Free way Inc. 123 <br />
Buritsutsu Inc. 021 <br />
Hoshinoinparu Inc. 037 <br />
HONDA twin cam Inc. 011 <br />
Mainzuueibu Inc. 038 <br />
Makishimuwakusu Inc. 045 <br />
Pine Shaw Inc. 008 <br />
Meiwa Inc. 041 <br />
Yajima industry Inc. 091 <br />
Yamato Inc. 122 <br />
Lucky automatic Inc. 126 <br />
Love lark Inc. 083<br />
]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Oil Catch Tank sau doar Breather]]></title>
			<link>https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-Oil-Catch-Tank-sau-doar-Breather</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 12 Dec 2010 12:40:22 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://www.hondatalk.ro/member.php?action=profile&uid=46">LauX_LauX_LauX</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-Oil-Catch-Tank-sau-doar-Breather</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Ce parere aveti de Oil Catch Tank ? Merita investitia sau e suficient un simplu Breather(filtru mic)?<br />
<br />
Eu ma gandesc ca nu degeaba sunt bagate acele gaze in admisie, dar pe langa ele mai intra si vapori de ulei care nu prea da bine acolo. Uitati niste scheme cu instalatia propriuzisa si un filmulet:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ryFsiVoZp7E" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ryFsiVoZp7E</a><br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
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			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Ce parere aveti de Oil Catch Tank ? Merita investitia sau e suficient un simplu Breather(filtru mic)?<br />
<br />
Eu ma gandesc ca nu degeaba sunt bagate acele gaze in admisie, dar pe langa ele mai intra si vapori de ulei care nu prea da bine acolo. Uitati niste scheme cu instalatia propriuzisa si un filmulet:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ryFsiVoZp7E" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ryFsiVoZp7E</a><br /><!-- start: postbit_attachments_attachment -->
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			<title><![CDATA[Despre evacuare - backpressure]]></title>
			<link>https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-Despre-evacuare-backpressure</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 27 Oct 2010 10:06:49 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://www.hondatalk.ro/member.php?action=profile&uid=3">yulasinio</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-Despre-evacuare-backpressure</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Inca un articol gasit pe site-urile frecventate de mine si care cred ca ar face o discutie interesanta pe aici...<br />
<br />
<blockquote class="mycode_quote"><cite>Quote:</cite>Backpressure: The myth and why it's wrong.<br />
<br />
Introduction<br />
One of the most misunderstood concepts in exhaust theory is backpressure. People love to talk about backpressure on message boards with no real understanding of what it is and what it's consequences are. I'm sure many of you have heard or read the phrase "Hondas need backpressure" when discussing exhaust upgrades. That phrase is in fact completely inaccurate and a wholly misguided notion.<br />
<br />
Some basic exhaust theory.<br />
Your exhaust system is designed to evacuate gases from the combustion chamber quickly and efficently. Exhaust gases are not produced in a smooth stream; exhaust gases originate in pulses. A 4 cylinder motor will have 4 distinct pulses per complete engine cycle, a 6 cylinder has 6 pules and so on. The more pulses that are produced, the more continuous the exhaust flow. Backpressure can be loosely defined as the resistance to positive flow - in this case, the resistance to positive flow of the exhaust stream.<br />
<br />
Backpressure and velocity.<br />
Some people operate under the misguided notion that wider pipes are more effective at clearing the combustion chamber than narrower pipes. It's not hard to see how this misconception is appealing - wider pipes have the capability to flow more than narrower pipes. So if they have the ability to flow more, why isn't "wider is better" a good rule of thumb for exhaust upgrading? In a word - VELOCITY. I'm sure that all of you have at one time used a garden hose w/o a spray nozzle on it. If you let the water just run unrestricted out of the house it flows at a rather slow rate. However, if you take your finger and cover part of the opening, the water will flow out at a much much faster rate.<br />
<br />
The astute exhaust designer knows that you must balance flow capacity with velocity. You want the exhaust gases to exit the chamber and speed along at the highest velocity possible - you want a FAST exhaust stream. If you have two exhaust pulses of equal volume, one in a 2" pipe and one in a 3" pipe, the pulse in the 2" pipe will be traveling considerably FASTER than the pulse in the 3" pipe. While it is true that the narrower the pipe, the higher the velocity of the exiting gases, you want make sure the pipe is wide enough so that there is as little backpressure as possible while maintaining suitable exhaust gas velocity. Backpressure in it's most extreme form can lead to reversion of the exhaust stream - that is to say the exhaust flows backwards, which is not good. The trick is to have a pipe that that is as narrow as possible while having as close to zero backpressure as possible at the RPM range you want your power band to be located at. Exhaust pipe diameters are best suited to a particular RPM range. A smaller pipe diameter will produce higher exhaust velocities at a lower RPM but create unacceptably high amounts of backpressure at high rpm. Thus if your powerband is located 2-3000 RPM you'd want a narrower pipe than if your powerband is located at 8-9000RPM.<br />
<br />
Many engineers try to work around the RPM specific nature of pipe diameters by using setups that are capable of creating a similar effect as a change in pipe diameter on the fly. The most advanced is Ferrari's which consists of two exhaust paths after the header - at low RPM only one path is open to maintain exhaust velocity, but as RPM climbs and exhaust volume increases, the second path is opened to curb backpressure - since there is greater exhaust volume there is no loss in flow velocity. BMW and Nissan use a simpler and less effective method - there is a single exhaust path to the muffler; the muffler has two paths; one path is closed at low RPM but both are open at high RPM.<br />
<br />
So how did this myth come to be?<br />
I often wonder how the myth "Hondas need backpressure" came to be. Mostly I believe it is a misunderstanding of what is going on with the exhaust stream as pipe diameters change. For instance, someone with a civic decides he's going to upgrade his exhaust with a 3" diameter piping. Once it's installed the owner notices that he seems to have lost a good bit of power throughout the powerband. He makes the connections in the following manner: "My wider exhaust eliminated all backpressure but I lost power, therefore the motor must need some backpressure in order to make power." What he did not realize is that he killed off all his flow velocity by using such a ridiculously wide pipe. It would have been possible for him to achieve close to zero backpressure with a much narrower pipe - in that way he would not have lost all his flow velocity.<br />
<br />
So why is exhaust velocity so important?<br />
The faster an exhaust pulse moves, the better it can scavenge out all of the spent gasses during valve overlap. The guiding principles of exhaust pulse scavenging are a bit beyond the scope of this doc but the general idea is a fast moving pulse creates a low pressure area behind it. This low pressure area acts as a vacuum and draws along the air behind it. A similar example would be a vehicle traveling at a high rate of speed on a dusty road. There is a low pressure area immediately behind the moving vehicle - dust particles get sucked into this low pressure area causing it to collect on the back of the vehicle. This effect is most noticeable on vans and hatchbacks which tend to create large trailing low pressure areas - giving rise to the numerous "wash me please" messages written in the thickly collected dust on the rear door(s).<br />
<br />
Conclusion.<br />
So it turns out that Hondas don't need backpressure, they need as high a flow velocity as possible with as little backpressure as possible. </blockquote>
]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Inca un articol gasit pe site-urile frecventate de mine si care cred ca ar face o discutie interesanta pe aici...<br />
<br />
<blockquote class="mycode_quote"><cite>Quote:</cite>Backpressure: The myth and why it's wrong.<br />
<br />
Introduction<br />
One of the most misunderstood concepts in exhaust theory is backpressure. People love to talk about backpressure on message boards with no real understanding of what it is and what it's consequences are. I'm sure many of you have heard or read the phrase "Hondas need backpressure" when discussing exhaust upgrades. That phrase is in fact completely inaccurate and a wholly misguided notion.<br />
<br />
Some basic exhaust theory.<br />
Your exhaust system is designed to evacuate gases from the combustion chamber quickly and efficently. Exhaust gases are not produced in a smooth stream; exhaust gases originate in pulses. A 4 cylinder motor will have 4 distinct pulses per complete engine cycle, a 6 cylinder has 6 pules and so on. The more pulses that are produced, the more continuous the exhaust flow. Backpressure can be loosely defined as the resistance to positive flow - in this case, the resistance to positive flow of the exhaust stream.<br />
<br />
Backpressure and velocity.<br />
Some people operate under the misguided notion that wider pipes are more effective at clearing the combustion chamber than narrower pipes. It's not hard to see how this misconception is appealing - wider pipes have the capability to flow more than narrower pipes. So if they have the ability to flow more, why isn't "wider is better" a good rule of thumb for exhaust upgrading? In a word - VELOCITY. I'm sure that all of you have at one time used a garden hose w/o a spray nozzle on it. If you let the water just run unrestricted out of the house it flows at a rather slow rate. However, if you take your finger and cover part of the opening, the water will flow out at a much much faster rate.<br />
<br />
The astute exhaust designer knows that you must balance flow capacity with velocity. You want the exhaust gases to exit the chamber and speed along at the highest velocity possible - you want a FAST exhaust stream. If you have two exhaust pulses of equal volume, one in a 2" pipe and one in a 3" pipe, the pulse in the 2" pipe will be traveling considerably FASTER than the pulse in the 3" pipe. While it is true that the narrower the pipe, the higher the velocity of the exiting gases, you want make sure the pipe is wide enough so that there is as little backpressure as possible while maintaining suitable exhaust gas velocity. Backpressure in it's most extreme form can lead to reversion of the exhaust stream - that is to say the exhaust flows backwards, which is not good. The trick is to have a pipe that that is as narrow as possible while having as close to zero backpressure as possible at the RPM range you want your power band to be located at. Exhaust pipe diameters are best suited to a particular RPM range. A smaller pipe diameter will produce higher exhaust velocities at a lower RPM but create unacceptably high amounts of backpressure at high rpm. Thus if your powerband is located 2-3000 RPM you'd want a narrower pipe than if your powerband is located at 8-9000RPM.<br />
<br />
Many engineers try to work around the RPM specific nature of pipe diameters by using setups that are capable of creating a similar effect as a change in pipe diameter on the fly. The most advanced is Ferrari's which consists of two exhaust paths after the header - at low RPM only one path is open to maintain exhaust velocity, but as RPM climbs and exhaust volume increases, the second path is opened to curb backpressure - since there is greater exhaust volume there is no loss in flow velocity. BMW and Nissan use a simpler and less effective method - there is a single exhaust path to the muffler; the muffler has two paths; one path is closed at low RPM but both are open at high RPM.<br />
<br />
So how did this myth come to be?<br />
I often wonder how the myth "Hondas need backpressure" came to be. Mostly I believe it is a misunderstanding of what is going on with the exhaust stream as pipe diameters change. For instance, someone with a civic decides he's going to upgrade his exhaust with a 3" diameter piping. Once it's installed the owner notices that he seems to have lost a good bit of power throughout the powerband. He makes the connections in the following manner: "My wider exhaust eliminated all backpressure but I lost power, therefore the motor must need some backpressure in order to make power." What he did not realize is that he killed off all his flow velocity by using such a ridiculously wide pipe. It would have been possible for him to achieve close to zero backpressure with a much narrower pipe - in that way he would not have lost all his flow velocity.<br />
<br />
So why is exhaust velocity so important?<br />
The faster an exhaust pulse moves, the better it can scavenge out all of the spent gasses during valve overlap. The guiding principles of exhaust pulse scavenging are a bit beyond the scope of this doc but the general idea is a fast moving pulse creates a low pressure area behind it. This low pressure area acts as a vacuum and draws along the air behind it. A similar example would be a vehicle traveling at a high rate of speed on a dusty road. There is a low pressure area immediately behind the moving vehicle - dust particles get sucked into this low pressure area causing it to collect on the back of the vehicle. This effect is most noticeable on vans and hatchbacks which tend to create large trailing low pressure areas - giving rise to the numerous "wash me please" messages written in the thickly collected dust on the rear door(s).<br />
<br />
Conclusion.<br />
So it turns out that Hondas don't need backpressure, they need as high a flow velocity as possible with as little backpressure as possible. </blockquote>
]]></content:encoded>
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