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Ajustable Cam Gears


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AEM TRU-TIME Adjustable Cam Gears increase horsepower and torque without having to change the camshaft(s) and are must-have items for engines that are milled, forced induction, high compression and/or utilizing aftermarket competition cams. Our gears enable users to match cam timing with their vehicle's tuning state by advancing or retarding the cam profile in one-degree increments via true laser-etched markings. Precision-cut gear teeth ensure no premature wearing of the belt surface and AEM's anodizing on the gear teeth is lab-test proven as the hardest anodizing process on the market.

AEM TRU-TIME Adjustable Cam Gears are available in a multi-spoke, five-bolt design for most vehicles and our classic full-faced, three-bolt design for select applications. Five-bolt cam gears have an “8” in the suffix (23-8XX), and three-bolt cam gears have a “6” in the suffix (23-6XX).

•Increase horsepower and torque without any cam changes and are ideal for heavily modified engines
•Grade-8, six-point hex bolts stand up to repeated adjustments and feature an integral washer flange for greater load distribution
•True laser-etched markings on the leading edge of the gear allow for quick, accurate adjustments
•Hard anodizing on belt surface is lab-tested as the most durable anodizing on the market
•CNC-machined from 6061-T6 billet aluminum
•Comprehensive installation instructions, recommended cam gear settings and decals included
•Manufactured and assembled in the USA
•For Off-Road use only

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SKUNK2 Pro-Series cam gears feature a super lightweight design and are CNC machined from 7075-T6 billet aluminum. Each gear has laser etched timing marks with +/-10 cam degrees of adjustment and feature Skunk2’s proven 6-bolt design. The outer gear is hard anodized for durability and the center hub is Titanium anodized for that racing look. Pro- Series cam gears are 5% lighter than our already ultra-lightweight Tuner Series cam gears.

•CNC Machined 7075 Aluminum
•Hard Anodized Outer Gear
•Industry Leading 6-Bolt Design
•+/- 10 Cam Degrees of Adjustment
•35% Lighter Than Factory Gears
•5% Lighter Than S2 Tuner Series

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TODA Racing campulleys allow precise tuning of camshaft timing. Adjustable campulleys are essential when using Toda Camshafts or any non-stock performance camshaft. TODA campulleys are made completely from 7075 aluminum while our competitors use 6061. 6061 is a cheaper grade of aluminum and is easier to produce on CNC machines, therefore is cheaper to produce. 7075 is a more expensive and higher grade of aluminum commonly found on fighter aircraft landing gear or other high stress areas. The use of 7075 aluminum allows TODA Racing to offer the strongest and lightest campulley on the market. In addition, our advanced timing degree system makes TODA campulleys the most accurate on the market. For long term durability the timing marks are machined into the metal, not painted on, or silk screened, therefore they will not rub off with age.

Some aftermarket campulleys use connecting bolts that are not compatible with TODA camshafts. The use of these bolts could damage the TODA camshafts. If you plan to use TODA camshafts, Toda only recommend using TODA campulleys to prevent damage to the camshafts.

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HKS Adjustable Cam Gears allow fine tuning of the camshaft timing to maximize engine performance and tailor power characteristics for various driving conditions. Either with OEM or HKS Camshafts, adjustments can be made to tune an engine’s power band to the optimum RPM range for a particular application.

HKS Cam Gears are made completely of anodized Duralumin with nickle plated gear teeth except for applications with timing chains which utilize an aluminum slide with steel teeth. HKS engineers chose Duralumin as the core material for HKS Cam Gears because its lightweight properties decrease drag on the engine.

Precise valve timing can be adjusted and set within the range of ± 20° along a Vernier scale of 2° intervals. Each interval index is laser-etched into the Duralumin and "A" (advance) and "R" (retard) directional markers are also laser-etched on to the cam gear face.

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OBX Precision Adjustable Cam Sprockets are a wonderful method of extracting extra power from an engine. Adjustable +/- 10 degrees, these sprockets allow the user to tune the engine for more power in low, middle or upper RPM ranges. This adjustment allows the tuner to move the peak power along the engines natural power band by advancing or retarding the cam timing.

CAD designed and CNC machined from 6061-T6 aircraft grade aluminum, the adjustable cam sprockets are extremely lightweight yet able to withstand extreme abuse. The hard baked gear teeth prevent wear and tear and our advanced 5 point locking design keep belt slippage from occurring.
OBX Precision Adjustable Cam Sprockets are a great way to dress up an engine and at the same time tunable to reach an engines true potential.

•CAD designed and CNC machined from lightweight 6061-T6 billet aluminum
•Advanced 5-bolt pattern to eliminate change of cam gear timing
•Allows for single degree adjustment to a maximum of +/- 10 degrees (advance/retard)
•Laser cut degree marks for easy reading and adjustment
•Hard-baked gears teeth prevent wear under the toughest conditions

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Fidanza. The camshaft is the one part of your vehicle that determines the timing of the critical events that result in the production of horsepower. While amazing improvements have been made in the ability of the internal combustion engine to produce horsepower, the camshaft is largely unchanged in the history of the 4-cycle motor. Fortunately, this doesn't mean you are stuck with what you have! Most camshafts are designed so that they open and close the valves to ensure both fuel economy and reliability. With Fidanza Adjustable Cam Gears, you can realize improved torque or increased horsepower without sacrificing reliability.

Consider these benefits:

•6061 T6 Aluminum construction
•CNC machined to more exacting tolerances than original gears
•Beveled tooth edges to increast belt life
•12 Degrees of laser-etched adjustment
•Stainless steel fasteners

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BLOX Racing adjustable cam sprockets allow performance enthusiasts and engine tuners to adjust intake and exhaust camshaft timing for optimal horsepower and torque and efficiency.



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To shift or move the powerband up higher along the rpm range (for 1/4 mile et. improvement), you need to increase the overlap.

You do this by tightening the lobe separation angle (LSA) between the intake cam's and exhaust cam's lobe centers with your aftermarket adjustable cam gears . When you tighten the LSA, you increase cam overlap duration.

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If you want a higher powerband location, you tighten the LSA by rotating the intake and exhaust cam gears in opposite directions from one another in steady precise increments. The trick is to find the best overlap for your particular engine's package of parts and unique way of breathing compared to everyone else's.


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Hp and Torque Curves with

Dots = Tighter LSA

Without Dots = Wider LSA

Wider lobe separation angle (no dots) produces more midrange torque but with a loss of upper rpm and peak torque.

Narrower lobe separation angle (with dots) produces more high rpm range and peak torque but with a loss of midrange.

Less LSA increases intake and exhaust valve opening overlap which creates more scavenging and a stronger upper rpm powerband.

Less LSA [or more intake and exhaust cams overlap] is better for a racing engine than a high performance street engine. The idle suffers as you add more overlap since there's not enough vacuum at idle rpm.


1. Moves Peak Torque to Higher RPM
2. Increases Maximum Torque
3. Narrows Powerband
4. Builds Higher Cylinder Pressure
5. Increase Chance of Engine Knock
6. Increase Cranking Compression and Effective Compression
7. Idle Vacuum is Reduced and Idle Quality Suffers
8. Open Valve-Overlap Increases
9. Closed Valve-Overlap Increases
10. Decreases Piston-to-Valve Clearance

Obviously, widening the LSA (decreasing overlap) does the opposite to these.

Aftermarket Cam Gears: What To Look For When You Shop

Stock cam gears cannot be adjusted. You must purchase aftermarket adjustable cam gears. Good ones are:

1. light so that they don't add valvetrain mass (anodized billet aluminum)
2. have good cam gear bolts to hold down the cam gears to prevent them from slipping after you've torqued them down (usually these have more than 3 bolts but there's a balance between having too many bolts so that it becomes an inconvenience during tuning and not enough to prevent slipping. I'll put up with inconvenience since slip prevention is a priority.). The cam gear should be rigid or surface-hardened enough to prevent the bolt from sinking into the cam gear surface.
3. have etched-on, clearly readable, easy to understand, highly accurate markings. Painted on markings are easily worn off. if the 0 degree mark is not TDC what good is the cam gear? Some cam gears makers have not double-checked (quality control) their TDC markings against the stock TDC marks and degree the cams after their cam gears have been installed to see if the 0 mark is truly TDC, so be cautious on install and check.

Have you checked to make sure that INTAKE 0 degree and EXHAUST 0 degree markings on those cam gears were indeed set at TDC?

On a tuning session on the street or at the strip, I suggest that you do the cam gear tuning by going with a friend in the passenger seat with a stopwatch, if you don't have a datalogger that records speed and elapsed time. Do some wide open throttle acceleration runs at the 1/4 mile strip on a test & tune day.

The point here is that , for each cam gear setting, do your timing over the exact same stretch of road and over the same exact distance. Have your friend time how long it takes you to go from say 30 mph to 90 mph. Do 2 runs for every setting. You want an objective measure ,like an acceleration time, to tell you if the setting is good for your particular engine. Acceration is the change in speed over the change in time. You want a higher number if the cam gear setting is good. A change of 1 tenth of a second or more consistently is good.

Don't rely on the butt dyno. It's only sensitive to changes in the early part of the rpm range.


Each person's engine will have a different optimal cam gear setting for it. Just because someone has the exact same model Integra and parts as you, does not necessarily mean that their engine and yours behave identically. Variations in performance can occur simply from minor differences in assembly at the factory, engine break-in procedures (if any) by the owner, and owner maintenance.

I would go 2 camshaft degrees at a time starting with the intake cam, since it also determines the reference baseline ignition timing as well (connected to the distributor) . Do 2 runs per setting over the same track distance.

When you stop seeing an improvement in the elapsed time in between your 2 set mph points, then go back to the best setting.

As for the "next best part" for your engine, I really don't think along those lines. I choose my powerband location and power goals first, and get parts that have designs or specs that will fascilitate getting those 2 goals.

Sometimes you have to do some math to get the exact specs for these but in general, high powerbands like single stage IM's and 4-1 headers with big diameter primaries & collector , for instance.

If you don't have a VTEC controller, you'll definitely need one, since the ITR cams will want a higher VTEC point, higher VTEC fuel table starting point, and different fuel tables than your stock GSR VTEC point and fuel tables.

I think we've covered quite a bit about FPR's before and when to get them and so, those threads can be easily found on a search. You can't richen the fuel delivery using a VTEC controller at full throttle and so, you'll need an FPR to richen and use the controller to lean down in the rpms that become overly rich after the FPR has been set.


WARNING: If you advance the intake cam gear and retard the exhaust cam gear too far, you risk piston to valve contact. Remember 1 cam gear degree = 2 crankshaft degrees and so you exceed 8-10 cam gear degree change at your own peril, unless you have precisely degreed your cams and know exactly how many degrees max. advance/retard you have to play with.

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Well since I've spent the last 4 hours reading about the double slit experiment explaining how LSA effects and engine seems so very very simple.

LSA is the lobe speration angle of the cam, if you imagine the lobes of the cam like this \ /
Then the disatnce between the tops of the lobes is the lobe seperation angle. BUuuuuuuut there's an area at the bottom of the lobes looking straight down them where the right hand slope of one lobe and the left hand side of the other overlap.

As above ^ during this period of overlap both the intake and exahust valves are open. IF you have a good exahust that is the right length then the suction in the exhaust pipes will help speed the intake velocity during this overlap and cause more air to be sucked into the cylinder. However the headers can't work at all rev ranges and mostly don't work good in low speed low power situations, during these times (like idling) a cam with alot of overlap will have pressure in the exhaust pushing back into the exahust port and it can even be bad enough to reach back up into the intake ports. The wrong headers for the job will make this worse. The effect of all this is that at the same duration a cam with a narrow LSA like 102-108 will have a rougher idle than one with 112-118, the narrow LSA cams also tend to have a stronger power band for a shorter time and at lower rpm. Where a wide LSA cam tends to have a wider powerband and more power at high rpm (If duration is the same) but you can't just say ok 102 lsa will make the most average torque because you also have to match this to engine size, bore and stroke and alot of other stuff.

Alot of big blocks are quite happy with 104-106 LSA cams, but a small cube small block V8's are not, V6's are different again. In the end unless you have made 100 cam swaps on any the choosen engine in a engine dyno room no one truely knows how any one single cam is going to perform, that's why nearly all engine builders and cam grinders leave this stuff up to computers to calculate. I've been watching what cams the faster V6's are running and they are all pretty big cams, much bigger than most people think the V6 wants and it all lines up perfectly with the simulations I've run on V6 cams. But if you don't want to race the car then really there's not alot of point in changing the cam because Holden build cars for daily driving and they have allready built the best combo for that.



problema la camele noastre e determinarea axului centru lob, adica gradele de maxim lift pt ca lobii sunt asimetrici.
Invidia Injen Weapon-R Eibach Drag Wheels Skunk2 Magnat


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