probabil o sa fac si eu asta ca am o maimutza in cap de ceva vreme


http://tdi-plc.com/blog/category/japan/honda-k20-engine

Asta e cel mai imortant lucru intr-un rebuild si eu l-am tot mentionat de fiecare data dar putini il iau in seama.

Quote:The bores are measured for size, ovality and taper because it’s dangerous to assume that the boring has been carried out properly. We often have to reject cylinder boring work that hasn’t been completed to our satisfaction.

When working to tight tolerances, the correct piston to bore clearance is critical. Cosworth recommend a bore clearance as low as 60 microns, so any tight spots may lead to a catastrophic seizure.

Un alt lucru important sunt ghidurile de la supape, toata lumea vorbeste de simeringuri dar e fals. La un motor daca ii dai semeringurile de la supape jos complet va fumega la pornire/relanti dar in mers uleiul nu mai ajunge in cilindrii din cauza miscarii valvei.

Quote:The main cause of the heavy oil consumption was worn valve guides.

It’s difficult/impossible to buy replacement valve guides from Honda, but fortunately Toda Racing offer a set of heavy duty guides for the intake and exhaust which we know to work very well.

Deh multe poti sa faci, important e sa ai lovelele pentru piese

adevarat dar e si greu de gasit o freza si o masina de honuit la tolerantele alea.

E chestia de verificare, multi schimba segmentii, simeringuri garnituri si se trezesc ca fumega la fel ca inainte. Poate ca nu ai nevoie sa ii rectifici deloc si trebuiesc numai un pic honuiti dar trebuiesc verificati pentru ovalitate.

mai ales pe motoare vechi sunt ovalizati., dar putini au comparatoare sa verifice.
( k20 e un open deck , deci sensibil la ovalizare)

La fel e si B16/B18/H22 cred ca toate la Honda sunt open deck.