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Geometria facuta acasa



 
#1

Eu stiam ca avem deja un thread pe tema asta dar se pare ca nu, asa ca e timpul sa facem unul.

Pentru cei dintre voi care schimbati geometria destul de des si nu vreti sa dati bani de fiecare data, atunci poate ghidul asta o sa va ajute.

Rosu: sunt firele care se ataseaza pe niste boltari sau dupa cum se vede si in pozele de mai jos pe un cadru special.
Distanta marcata in Verde este foarte importanta iar ea se masoara din centrul jantei pana la ata. In schita de mai jos aceasta este de 100mm dar nu e batuta in cuie si poate fi cat doriti atata timp cat e la fel fata/spate.

Ajustare Toe(paralelism)
Pentru 0.00 Toe distantele marcate cu roz si albastru trebuie sa fie egale.

Albastru(mm) - Roz(mm) = __mm toe

Exemplu:
75.5mm - 76.0mm = -0.5mm toe in.

Pasi de urmat!
1. Masina trebuie sa fie parcata pe o suprafata perfect plana. NU ridicati masina pe cric pentru ca unghiul se schimba odata ce o lasati jos.
2. Incercati sa imobilizati volanul cu rotiile drepte.
3. Intindeti ata ca si in schema.
4. Ajustati capetele de bara pana obtineti distanta dorita, impingeti masina in fata si in spate dupa ajustare ca sa permiteti rotii sa se aseze.
5. Daca exitndeti capatul de bara veti obtine -toe (in), daca il scurtati veti obtine +toe (out).

Ajustare Camber(cadere)

Ajustarea camberului se poate face folosind un boloboc, plus o bara de aluminu care are lungimea jantei si un subler. Asezati parte de jos a bolobocului pe buza jante pana cand acesta este perfect vertical, apoi cu sublerul masurati dinstanta din buza superioara a jantei si pana la boloboc.

Acum camberul poate fi calculat dupa formula de mai jos:

inverse tan( __mm measured / _mm bar length ) = __ deg camber

Examplu:
inverse tan( 21.92mm / 457.2mm ) = 2.7 deg camber

[Image: BTCC_AMD_Tuning_VW_Golf-093.jpg]

[Image: BTCC_AMD_Tuning_VW_Golf-094.jpg]

[Image: BTCC_AMD_Tuning_VW_Golf-095.jpg]


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
           

.bmp   diagram.bmp (Size: 321.64 KB / Downloads: 72)
Honda nu arde uleiul, il foloseste.



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#2

MAKING IT A LITTLE EASIER:

(hopefully)
I received an email a little while ago from Almir Delic. He had come up with an Excel spreadsheet to help him calculate what he needed to get the toe settings he wants. It was a great idea! So I took his thoughts and expanded his original Excel sheet. I've included it here for you. Fill in the red fields with your known values, and the green fields are calculated for you to measure on the car. I hope it makes things easier - but there are a lot of fields to consider.

Here's a field-by-field explanation. If the field wants mm, but you have inches - simply multiply by 25.4. If the field wants inches, but you have mm - then simply divide my 25.4.
TOE:

"inch diameter wheels" (red) : enter the diameter of your wheels, in inches.
"mm front track" (red) : enter the front track of the car (wheel-center to wheel-center) in mm. Can usually be found on Carpoint
"mm rear track" (red) : enter the rear track of the car (wheel-center to wheel-center) in mm. Can usually be found on Carpoint
"mm front rim plane to centercap" (red) : looking in the plane perpendicular to the ground, and flat with the outside of the wheel, most wheels have a rim that sticks out further than the centercap. Put the level across the outer rim, and measure how deeply set the centercap is in mm. If the centercap sticks out past the rim, this value should be negative.
"mm rear rim plane to centercap" (red) : looking in the plane perpendicular to the ground, and flat with the outside of the wheel, most wheels have a rim that sticks out further than the centercap. Put the level across the outer rim, and measure how deeply set the centercap is in mm. If the centercap sticks out past the rim, this value should be negative.
"mm to rope from front center" (green) : measuring from the front wheel centercap to the string parallel to the car in mm. Move the string such that it meets this value. (Note that moving the rope on either end requires rechecking at the other).
"mm to rope from rear center" (green) : measuring from the rear wheel centercap to the string parallel to the car in mm. Move the string such that it meets this value. (Note that moving the rope on either end requires rechecking at the other).
"deg of FRONT toe in (+) or out (-) PER SIDE (red) : toe is measured different ways - either with an absolute measurement (such as X mm of toe) or with an absolute per side measurement (such as Y mm of toe per side) or using an angular measurement (such as Z degrees), or using an angular measurement per side (such as Z/2 degrees). The best is using the degrees (or in our case, degrees per side - which is just total degrees divided by 2), since the mm/inch measurements change depending on how far from the wheel center you measure them. For TOE IN, put a positive angle, and for TOE OUT, put a negative angle. If you have per-side or overall toe absolute measurements, simply adjust the angle until the boxes for "mm of TOTAL toe in (+) or out (-)" or "mm of PER-SIDE toe in (+) or toe out (-)" match what you want.
"deg of REAR toe in (+) or out (-) PER SIDE (red) : toe is measured different ways - either with an absolute measurement (such as X mm of toe) or with an absolute per side measurement (such as Y mm of toe per side) or using an angular measurement (such as Z degrees), or using an angular measurement per side (such as Z/2 degrees). The best is using the degrees (or in our case, degrees per side - which is just total degrees divided by 2), since the mm/inch measurements change depending on how far from the wheel center you measure them. For TOE IN, put a positive angle, and for TOE OUT, put a negative angle. If you have per-side or overall toe absolute measurements, simply adjust the angle until the boxes for "mm of TOTAL toe in (+) or out (-)" or "mm of PER-SIDE toe in (+) or toe out (-)" match what you want.

Sursa: http://www.negative-camber.org/jam149/te...nment.html


Attached Files
.xls   WheelAlignment.xls (Size: 23.5 KB / Downloads: 33)
Honda nu arde uleiul, il foloseste.



The following 1 user says Thank You to yulasinio for this post:
  • kinky_boy
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#3

mi se pare greu atata vreme cat trebuie sa te raportezi la elemente de caroserie. daca nu sunt aliniate perfect n-o nimeresti veci. aia din poze stiu f bine ce fac, cred ca le e mai usor.
Invidia Injen Weapon-R Eibach Drag Wheels Skunk2 Magnat



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#4

Aşa face un mecanic pe care îl ştiu eu şi nu dă greş.



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#5

Unde am scris ma de elemente de caroserie Confused Cel mai important aici e sa fie masina pusa pe suprafata plana iar partea ce mai e grea e ajustarea mai ales daca ai masina lasata foarte mult.
Honda nu arde uleiul, il foloseste.



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#6

in poza aia cu golful, scul aia e prinsa pe bot.
Invidia Injen Weapon-R Eibach Drag Wheels Skunk2 Magnat



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#7

Pai nu are nici o legatura pentru ca suportul ala este folosit numai la intins sfoara. Daca nu sareai peste randuri cand citeai postul iti dadeai seama si singur ca nu influenteaza cu nimic Icon_razz
Honda nu arde uleiul, il foloseste.



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#8

bine bine, las ca citesc Icon_razz
Invidia Injen Weapon-R Eibach Drag Wheels Skunk2 Magnat



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#9

Sincer, pare ok metoda (oldschool) dar nu m-as arunca... parca nu am atata incredere in oameni de la noi care masoara folosind o sfoara.
Stiti vorba aia, romanu masoara cu sublerul, marcheaza cu creta si taie cu toporu... Prefer metodele mai moderne...



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#10

totusi trebuie spus insa ca aceste reglaje vizeaza in principal conditii particulare (configuratie pista, temperaturi, suspensie, compound, stil pilotaj, etc etc) si nu conditii generale de utilizare.
... de asemenea uzura pneurilor (vazuta ca nr de km) e alta la curse dupa cum stim. un set "vede" cateva zeci de km si apoi doar cateva sute daca-l cumpara un track day enthusiast Icon_smile

in strada da, avem nevoie de un setup cat mai precis posibil pt a beneficia de un factor de uzura cat mai bun, de aceea un reglaj pe Hunter e mai indicat.

.... reglajul cu sfoara ia cam mult timp si totusi foarte multe team-uri am vazut ca-l folosesc.
in jur de 4000 euro sunt kit-uri mobile cu lasere ce faciliteaza incredibil reglajele si sunt de o simplitate debordanta.



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#11

cu sfori faceau si aia de la skoda irc team la sibiu.
Invidia Injen Weapon-R Eibach Drag Wheels Skunk2 Magnat



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#12

cu sfori il fac si eu, pe spate l-am nimerit fata tre schimbat un rulment ca am joc de 0.5 grade



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#13

eu am verificat dupa reglaj pe hunter. pt camber am folosit rigla de aluminiu si iphone-ul.... macar sa fie si ala bun la ceva.... jeg de telefon



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#14

...ce mai faina sfoara am vazut-o la Nadia Comaneci Icon_smile

...weekend-ul trecut in Franta:

[Image: 960008_726646204016668_1989323698_n_zps7651b1b6.jpg]




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