Daca becul de la ECU
  dashboard_checkengine.jpg (Size: 3.62 KB / Downloads: 289) inca mai lumineaza dupa ce ati pornit motorul, este foarte bine sa aflati de ce si care este eroarea indicata de acesta.
Pentru asta avem nevoie de o bucata de sarma sau o agrafa...

In partea pasagerului sub cutia de acte o sa gasiti o invelitoare verde care gazduieste o mufa albastra cu doua fire.

Acum trebuie sa opriti motorul iar folosind bucata de sarma sau agrafa scurtcircuitati mufa albastra, la fel ca in poza de mai jos.
   

Dupa ce ai scurtcircuitat mufa invartiti cheia in contact pana la pozitia IGN (unde se aprind becurile in bord, NU PORNITI MOTORUL) si urmariti martorul de la motor in bord, acesta va ilumina intrerupt producand un cod sau o serie de coduri.

Dupa cum observati sunt luminari LUNGI si SCURTE ale martorului, o aprinderea lunga reprezinta cifra zecilor iar o aprindere scurta cea a unitatilor.

De exemplu: LUNG-LUNG-LUNG-SCURT-SCURT-SCURT-SCURT-PAUZA
... reprezinta codul de eroare 34

3 aprinderi lungi urmate de 4 scurte si o pauza, daca acesta este singurul cod pe care il arata ECU-ul acesta va fi repetat pana cand o sa opriti contactul. Dar, daca mai aveti mai multe coduri acestea vor fi aratate dupa pauze lungi in care martotul nu se aprinde iar ele vor fi repetate pana cand opriti contactul.

De exemplu: LUNG-LUNG-SCURT-PAUZA-LUNG-LUNG-LUNG-LUNG-SCURT-SCURT-SCURT-PAUZA
...codurile sunt: 21 si 43

Dupa ce ati determinat care sunt codurile scoateti agrafa sau firul din mufa albastra si puneti-o inapoi in inevelitoiarea verde sub cutia de acte.
Acum ca avem codurile sa vedem ce reprezinta...

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1 Oxygen Sensor "A" (Primary) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

2 Oxygen Sensor "B" defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

3 MAP Sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

4 CKP Sensor (Crankshaft Position Sensor) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

5 MAP Sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure) mechanical problem / disconnected piping

6 ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

7 TP Sensor (Throttle Position) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

8 TDC Sensor (Top Dead Center) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

9 CYP Sensor (Cylinder) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

10 IAT Sensor (Intake Air Temperature) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

12 EGR Lift Sensor (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

13 BARO Sensor (Atmospheric Pressure) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

14 IAC Valve (Idle Air Control) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

15 Ignition Output Signal missing or defective ignition output signal

16 Fuel Injector System defective circuit or unplugged / defective fuel injector

17 VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

19 Automatic Transmission Lock Up Control Solenoid Valve defective circuit or unplugged / defective solenoid valve

20 Electrical Load Detector defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

21 VTEC Solenoid Valve defective circuit or unplugged / defective solenoid valve

22 VTEC Oil Pressure Switch defective circuit or unplugged / defective oil pressure switch

23 KS (Knock Sensor) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

30 Automatic Transmission Signal: "A" / SEAF / SEFA / TMA or TMB defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

31 Automatic Transmission Signal "B" defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

41 Primary Oxygen Sensor - Heater circuit malfunction

43 Fuel Supply System defective or malfunctioning fuel supply system

45 System Too Lean or Too Rich malfunction in the fuel monitoring systems

48 LAF Sensor (Lean Air Fuel) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

54 CKF Sensor (Crankshaft Speed Fluctuation) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

58 TDC Sensor 2 (Top Dead Center) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

61 Oxygen Sensor, Heated - Sensor 1 (Primary) high voltage, low voltage, or slow response

63 Oxygen Sensor, Heated - Sensor 2 (Secondary) high voltage, low voltage, or slow response

65 Oxygen Sensor Heater (Secondary) malfunctioning or defective oxygen sensor heater

67 Catalyst system Efficiency Below Threshold malfunctioning or defective catalyst system

70 Automatic Transmission malfunction with the automatic transmission controls

71 Cylinder 1 Misfire or a Random Misfire a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire

72 Cylinder 2 Misfire or a Random Misfire a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire

73 Cylinder 3 Misfire or a Random Misfire a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire

74 Cylinder 4 Misfire or a Random Misfire a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire

75 Cylinder 5 Misfire or a Random Misfire a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire

76 Cylinder 6 Misfire or a Random Misfire a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire

80 Exhaust Gas Recirculation insufficient flow detected

86 ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature) circuit range / performance problem

90 Evaporative Emission Control System leak detected in the fuel tank area

91 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor low input

92 Evaporative Emission Control System insufficient purge flow

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Acum sa vedem cum sa resetam ECU-ul

1. Incalziti motorul pana ce ajunge la temperatura optima de functionare, de obicei cand porneste ventilatorul de racire. Personal prefer sa scot masina la o tura scurta in jurul "blocului" dupa care o las parcata in fata casei la relantiu cateva minute pana ce aud ventilatorul de la radiator pornind.

2. Acum verificati ca nu aveti nici un consumator pornit ex. ventilator, faruri, dezaburire luneta, bec luminat interior... Opriti motorul si scoteti borna de negativ (-) de pe baterie, si uniti-o cu cea de pe plus (+), in acest fel descarcati alte surse de energie de pe instalatie.
Se pot scoate si cele doua sigurante din tabloul de sub capota. Eu nu prea indic asta pt ca exista riscul strapungerii ECU-ului cand le pui inapoi.

3. Acum lasati-o sa stea vreo 10-15min dupa care atasati borna (-)inapoi pe baterie.

4. Pornti masina FARA SA APESATI PEDALA DE ACCELERATIE!!!!! si lasati-o sa stea la relantiu vreo 10-15 min sau pana cand auziti ventilatorul pornid din nou.

5. Opriti si reporniti motorul.

6. Acum puteti iesi la o tura in care sa va asigurati ca folositi toata plaja de turatii

OBD 0-1 si OBD2 coduri eroare , mufe diagnoza OBD ,

Astea de sus sunt erorile de la motor date de Engine Check. Mai avem si erori la ABS care sunt date de martoru de ABS:

1 Hydraulic pump motor over-run (contact BBA)
1-2 Hydraulic pump motor (contact BBA)
1-3 High pressure leak (possibly modulator)
1-4 Pressure switch (contact BBA)
1-8 Pressure accumulator
2-1 Handbrake warning lamp switch circuit faulty
3-1 Right hand front rotor damage
3-2 Left hand front rotor damage
3-4 Right hand rear rotor damage
3-8 Left hand rear rotor damage
3-12 Different tyre sizes fitted
4-1 Right hand front wheel sensor
4-2 Left hand front wheel sensor
4-4 Right hand rear wheel sensor
4-8 Left hand rear wheel sensor
5-4 Right hand rear wheel lock
5-8 Left hand rear wheel lock
6-1 Front fail safe relay
6-4 Rear fail safe relay
7-1 Right hand front modulator solenoid valve
7-2 Left hand front modulator solenoid valve
8-1 ABS operation fault
8-2 Electronic control unit (ECU) fault
8-4 Electronic control unit (ECU) - internal circuit fault

Salut initiativa acestui forum!!!

Am un CR-V din 2006 care se apropie de 200K km. Actualmente am GPL pe masina si ma deranjeaza un cod de eroare : P0172.
Din cate am citit pe forumurile d-afara , posibile cauze ar fi: MAF-ul murdar, injectoare decalibrate sau sonde lambda.

Ma puteti ajuta cu un manual de reparatii al masinii?
Alte sfaturi?

lasa codurile de eroare. cauta pe net sau prin manuale valorile resistentei si a tensiunii ce trebuie sa le ai in pinii de la MAF si verifica cu un aparat bun. la injectoare verifica rezistenta.

(cu codurie nu merge tot timpul. am avut masini care dintr-un ECT defect imi tragea dupa el si MAF-ul care era ok.
... adica omu' a fost la reprezentanta i-a facut diagnostic, i-a dat eroare de MAF, l-au schimbat si eroarea tot acolo era.

la om i s-a reaprins check engine dupa cativa km si i-au dat pastila cu readaparea ECU si alte legende ce circula in lumea "specialistilor". nu i-au verificat senzorii fie din necunoastere, fie din lipsa de timp.... Skoda Italia.)

Un link unde gasesti manuale e aici: http://www.hondatalk.ro/Thread-Manuale-Honda

(17-02-2014, 12:48)Tomi Wrote: lasa codurile de eroare. cauta pe net sau prin manuale valorile resistentei si a tensiunii ce trebuie sa le ai in pinii de la MAF si verifica cu un aparat bun. la injectoare verifica rezistenta.

(cu codurie nu merge tot timpul. am avut masini care dintr-un ECT defect imi tragea dupa el si MAF-ul care era ok.
... adica omu' a fost la reprezentanta i-a facut diagnostic, i-a dat eroare de MAF, l-au schimbat si eroarea tot acolo era.

la om i s-a reaprins check engine dupa cativa km si i-au dat pastila cu readaparea ECU si alte legende ce circula in lumea "specialistilor". nu i-au verificat senzorii fie din necunoastere, fie din lipsa de timp.... Skoda Italia.)

Exact asta este motivul pentru care nu vreau sa ajung la service: acolo iti va pune un diagnostic fara sa-si asume nici un fel de responsabilitate, schimba aia, aia si aia si daca eroarea reapare mai trebuie sa schimbi si aia... Si te trezesti ca ai bagat 1000 euro fara rezultat, daca nu mai mult .
O sa postez ce am facut cand voi rezolva problema.
Deocamdata ii dau reset cu Torque si reapare dupa 200Km....