Toyboy
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dupa Liqui Moly SS 10W40 cu care am mers toata vara, s-a comportat excelent  acum cand a mai scazut un pic temperatura am trecut la 5w40 Repsol Elite Competition.
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LIVIU_CTS
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sunt curios ce zici de el, eu sunt f multumit de elite faster-ul meu
Invidia Injen Weapon-R Eibach Drag Wheels Skunk2 Magnat
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Toyboy
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03-11-2010, 01:50
(This post was last modified: 03-11-2010, 01:52 by Toyboy.)
(02-11-2010, 16:23)LIVIU_CTS Wrote: sunt curios ce zici de el, eu sunt f multumit de elite faster-ul meu 
nu suntem la prima intalnire, s-a comportat foarte ok si am repetat
data viitoare..... daca mai apuca D-ul o sa vada Selenia
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LauX_LauX_LauX
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kinky_boy
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tocmai ce am vazut prin uk unii de folosesc 10W60 in K20 si cu mileage destul de mic. Crazy people ... iei o masina din asta si te intrebi mai tarziu de unde atata uzura in motor. O descriere de la Opie Oil legat de 10W60
Have a read of this article, it is an old one we used to post about using 10w-60 in an application not intended for it.
I have debated this many times on many car forums and I know there are some that do not agree with me however I have never had a reasonable technical explanation why 10w-60 is in fact suitable, it's certainly not mentioned in the handbooks of many modern highly tuned performance cars, with the exception of some Alfa Romeos for "spirited driving" whatever that is meant supposed mean.
Explaining this is difficult so there may be questions but I'll try my best to explain it in plain English!
Lets look at what oil specs actually mean and particularly the higher number which is in fact the oils SAE number (the "w" number is in fact the cold crank viscosity and measured in a different way) The SAE number is measured by the oils viscosity at 100°C.
Your cars require according to the manufacturers specs, sae 30, 40 and in some cases sae 50.
To attain the relevent sae number the oil has to be at 100°C (no thinner than)
SAE 30 11cst approx
SAE 40 14cst approx
SAE 50 18cst approx
Centistokes (cst) is the measure of a fluid's resistance to flow (viscosity). It is calculated in terms of the time required for a standard quantity of fluid at a certain temperature to flow through a standard orifice. The higher the value, the more viscous the fluid.
As viscosity varies with temperature, the value is meaningless unless accompanied by the temperature at which it is measured. In the case of oils, viscosity is generally reported in centistokes (cst) and usually measured at 40°C and 100°C.
SAE 60 is in fact 24cst viscosity at 100°C!
This is 33% thicker than an sae 50, 70% thicker than an sae 40 and over 100% thicker than an sae 30!
So, what's the problem with this thickness?
Well, this is measured at 100°C and at lower temps (70-90°C) all oils are thicker than at 100°C so the problem is compounded to some extent.
The downsides of such a thick oil (when not specified) are as follows:
Additional friction, heat and wear.
A reduction of BHP at the wheels
Lower fuel consumption
The thicker the oil is the more friction and drag and the more power the engine needs to move it around the engine which inevitably translates to less at the wheels.
So, when do we spec a thicker oil?
Well, you will probably have seen us on occassions recommending a 10w-50 but only in these circumstances.
1. If the car is heavily modded and heat/oil temperatures are excessive.
2. If the car is used on track and heat/oil temperatures are excessive.
3. If it's required by the handbook.
Our criteria for this is based on oil temps as an sae 40 semi-synthetic can handle around 110°C for limited periods whereas a proper synthetic sae 40 can hande 120-130°C for prolonged periods due to its thermal stability.
Once you see more than say 120°C for prolonged periods an sae 50 is adviseable as it is 18cst at 100°C and still 11cst at 130°C! This is in fact the same as an sae 30 at 100°C.
More importantly at 90°C an sae 40 is 15cst, an sae 50 is 20cst and an sae 60 is 30cst!
In a worst case scenario with thick oils (when not required) is that you will experience air entrainment and cavitation inside the bearings at high RPM. Not clever stuff!
I know this is technical stuff but oil is a combination of science and engineering and few people know enough about it to make an informed choice. Just because your mates use it and have had no problems is not a good enough reason to use it, your engine would prefer and benefit from the correct oil.
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LIVIU_CTS
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subiectul asta are o parte foarte importanta care influenteaza parerile, si anume folosirea unor coeficienti de vascozitate f f redusa pentru atingerea unor consumuri de carburanti si a unor norme de poluare din ce in ce mai stupide. dupa parerea mea (ne fiind inginer chimist) e o granita sub care se coboara din aceste considerente, iar pentru unii dintre noi care mai tragem de masini asta face ca la temperaturi mari motorul sa fie mai mult spalat decat uns. eu am experimentat acel 0w20 de la motul cu care motorul meu suna ca un sac de piese agitat. inainte sa alge uleiul pe care-l folosesc am studiat si am comparat acei factori si indicatori de curgere iar diferenta intre acel 0w20 si 5w50 era doar atat cat sa consider ca nu e aproape apa. diferenta nu e majora, dar motorul suna "normal" si trage la fel de bine.
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Toyboy
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si tocmai a crapat si primul K20 care mergea pe renumitul Xenum 7,5w40... o sa revin cu detalii daca e din cauza uleiului sau nu ....
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kinky_boy
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ca o paranteza la capitolul ulei, cei de la CPL afirmau prin vara ca baffle sump-urile drop in de la Clockwisemotion (care au pereti verticali), nu isi fac treaba cum trebuie si si asta pornind de la graficul de mai jos
![[Image: oilpressuredrop.jpg]](http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/1141/oilpressuredrop.jpg)
Acum vad ca cineva a ridicat problema si ideea generala este ca cele orizontale sunt preferate.
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yulasinio
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Ceva recomandari pentru Stream? In el e ceva Halfords 10w40 acuma dar vreau sa ii fac un schimb cu tot cu filtru. Ma duc pe 5w40? si ce marca? cineva mi-a recomandat Mobil1.
Honda nu arde uleiul, il foloseste.
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Vali_Lj
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Un Millers , Fucsh Titan , Motul , la 5w40 sau Red line 5w30 ( are filmul ceva mai gros la temperaturi inalte de cat 10w40 )
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yulasinio
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Cred ca cel mai usor de gasit aici e Motul, multumesc mult Vali
Honda nu arde uleiul, il foloseste.
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Vali_Lj
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yulasinio
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Ies scump rau cu transport cu tot. Pot sa iau de aici Motul la 35€.
Am vazut ca ala recomanda 0w30 pentru stream
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Hai hui
Honda nu arde uleiul, il foloseste.
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Vali_Lj
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Baga o intrebare si vezi ce game/uleiuri iti mai recomanda
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maruta
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Cam ciudata treaba cu recomandarile uleiului pentru Stream-ul cu K20A. Valvoline recomanda 5w40 (MaxLife Synthetic), iar Motul recomanda chiar 0w20 (8100 Eco-lite) sau 0w30 (8100 Eco-nergy).
Eu as merge pe un 5w30 (Valvoline, Amsoil sau Motul).
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yulasinio
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Pe ala ma gandeam sa merg si eu, daca te uiti la Opie Oils pe site la "upgrade" recomanda 5w30.
Sa vad ce marca gasesc prin IRL gradul ala la pret bun si ii fac un schimb.
Honda nu arde uleiul, il foloseste.
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DeN1gRator
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Si eu as merge tot pe 5W30, chiar si 5W40.
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maruta
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Nici gama Sustina de la Eneos n-ar fi o alegere rea. Se fabrica numai in JP din cate am inteles, restul in Olanda - ce ajunge pe la noi - Hyper nu mai stiu cum...
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ROOTH
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21-04-2012, 12:10
(This post was last modified: 21-04-2012, 12:12 by ROOTH.)
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andrei_r
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Ceva experiente cu Repsol a avut cineva? Baietii noi de la Iasi (adica trupa veche de la ATI, acum se cheama HACHI) merg pe Repsol (inainte se folosea Honda si Motul) si n-am nicio idee despre el, nu cred ca am auzit pe cineva sa bage in Civic-urile noi asa ceva. Ca vascozitate pana acum am avut doar 0W-20 sau 0W-30 si sincer as vrea sa raman pe astea (desi tocmai am facut 70.000km zilele trecute) fiindca am avut un consum de ulei/carburant super ok! Comparativ, varul meu care avea Mobil1 5W-40 mergea cu o medie de 2% in plus peste (dupa ce l-am trecut pe Motul zicea ca i-am umblat la motor  - are fix aceeasi masina ca a mea, doar culoarea difera.)
2009 Audi A6, 2.0 - 170CP, A/T, gri
Fosta: Honda Civic 4D 1.8 ES M/T Taffeta White
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